Customised jeans
It’s New Year’s’ Eve! How will you be spending it? Dressing up I hope. We are eating out tonight, by the Red Sea (Aqaba, Jordan)! Anyway this post is about jeans – special, embellished, customised jeans. Since I made a pair of Birkins, I have been dying to try out a second pair. This time in lighter, home dyed indigo denim. With a few additions.
Alas, as I have decided NOT to feature some jeans in my sweet pea SWAP. However I am keen to make some for the summer, but perhaps after I have finished the 11 SWAP garments. I have been thinking about how I could dye, or bleach, my hand made jeans. Or how they might be embellished to create a unique, customised pair. Here are two looks from TopShop – both of which appeal. Floral embroidery (although my colours would be softer and hand sewn). Or metallic spray paint or foiling.
Or maybe both together. I also have some inspiration from two young women I know. These artistic girls have just painted their jeans. I don’t think their jeans can be laundered, but I am not sure that is the point. What do you think?
Similar looks are available from Traid the textile recylcing company. What about these two items by Alex Noble at Traidremade?
I find all these ideas very exciting. I want to try it. So if I get bored with sewing tiny hand stitches on my vintage vogue Pucci pants you may see me going crazy with the paints.
What do you think?
Full length dresses and optical illusions
Have you got special plans for New Year’ Eve? Are you one of the lucky people invited to a black tie “do” where you have the chance to dress “to the nines”? If you are wearing a full length ball gown/evening dress what style will suit you best?
Earlier this year I wrote a couple of posts about Michelle Obama as she attends many formal functions and is often photographed wearing a full length dress. It struck me that the shape that looked really good at knee-length (a fitted skirt) looked less good at full length (the teal column dress with corset). A full-skirted dress was nice on her during the day, but for an evening look it had the absolute Wow1 factor. One of the most important things about a floor length dress is that it really alters the proportions here, so some of the old rules many need to be reconsidered.
Another long dress wearer would be Princess Diana. She looks amazing in the sheath dress, but fairly awful in the full skirted number.
Let’s see if we can analyse what is happening here.
Both ladies are tall with toned figures so they both look especially nice, and regal, in evening gowns. But the full length dress is one that strikes the viewer as a complete package – they tend not to have strong horizontals (actually the Herera dress does, but we will come to that in a moment). Therefore the underlying body shape is less easily disguised, or conversely it’s advantages are shown off more directly.
So for evening or maxi dress wear it is best to stick to your very best look. For a straight body (Diana) a straight silhouette is best. For a shaped body (Michelle) a shaped silhouette is best. In both cases follow the lines of the body and create a harmonious line. In terms of the horizontal lines on Michelle’s dress this serves to slightly reduce the impact of her height (at nearly 6″).
Now let’s think about applying this to a 5 5″ woman with a shaped figure (me!).
Over Christmas I cut out this dress. It’s another YSL classic from the Mondrian collection. I used the pattern before to make my Favourite Dress. I have always wanted to make the sequin version of it, since seeing Pattern Vault’s version. When I was looking through fabric for SWAP I thought this pink sheeny silk which I got as a remnant with sticky tape stains from Missan in Berwick Street, might be perfect for my Pucci pant suit. But then I remembered I had bought the fabric to make Vogue 1556. And this Christmas I found the perfect sequin cloth from Simply Fabrics in Brixton. I may include this in my SWAP as I had a little incident with some wax on my other YSL party dress.
When I examined the cloth I discovered I had enough to make the full length version. I thought about proportions. A shift dress is not my best shape. Think this would look better on me (curved bodyline) at knee or floor length? What do you think?
Secret Sewing Santa
At work we do Secret Santa – it’s been going for eight years, organised by the marvellous Mandy (from the Finance team), supported by Steve our (now ex) Land buyer. They love dressing up and bringing joy to our teams. But it is always fun – you get the name of who you are buying a gift for, a cost limit, and you give it to them as a hopefully lovely suprise.This year I declined to participate because I just had too much on. This year I declined to participate because I just had too much on.
But when I read about an internet based Sewing Swap I thought – yes! What a great idea. This great challenge, organised by Sewchet, is to buy, create or find a present for a fellow sewist, costing no more than £10, adding something homemade or free, and send it to an address in your own country. I researched my target by reading her blog – finding out what sort of things they like, their colouring and preferences. I had fun doing it. And this is what arrived!
My Secret Santa is Megan from Pigeon Wishes. Want to see who she is? She has some great photos and animations on her blog. What a stylish woman. I love this summery shot of Megan wearing a Cheong-sam and parasol.
Do you want to see what was inside my parcels? Megan has got me right, hasn’t she? A nice big piece of charcoal wool jersey, some bright pink lighter jersey, a pattern to make a classic pair of tailored trousers, and a sweet Lucky Lady button collection. Bravo! I love my presents. I shall enjoy making something nice with all of these. Thank you Megan for your thoughtfulness and I hope you too had a very Happy Christmas.
Do you think Megan was suggesting I made the pants in the grey jersey? An “amazing fit” sounds pretty compelling. This was my only sewing based present!
Did you get any sewing presents this year?
Sewing with a Plan 2016 10 – Announcing my Plan
Finally (and it has been a long time coming) I have my plan. Eventually I got out all my fabrics, measured them up (I usually buy remnants or no more than 2m if it is cut from the bolt. I am Mrs Stingy-cloth). Many designer patterns are fairly demanding on fabric, but compromises can usually be made.
A summer SWAP of 11 garments that work together, in sweet pea shades.
I have changed my initial plans. I dropped the green as it wasn’t true to the original inspiration and also velvet is too wintery (I believe). But I would like a green, velvet suit with a silver blouse at some point. I would like a silver skirt too. I was very keen to reflect my draped skirt experiments but that has gone too. I am due to do draped blouses at evening class this term so it is possible that I will introduce a blouse from that experience. But I can’t use my indigo this year. And there is no lace, and not much translucence, despite my best intentions.
I also dropped the jeans (ahem), which I really didn’t want to. I am very keen to make some light blue embroidered jeans, so as Stephanie said:
“I had a moment of epiphany the other day that I don’t have to make all of the items I’ve chosen for SWAP for SWAP, but can still make all of them through the year to meet my tailoring goals in particular. It’s obvious but hadn’t occurred to me. Best to take the pressure off, I think.”
Thanks for that. Dropped from the SWAP doesn’t mean you will never get made dear jeans, blouse and suit. Your day will come!
I brought in two pieces of pattern into the mix- one a little piece of Iris silk I got in a remnant box ages ago, and a metre of silk I painted in the summer with a deep purple background and pink and mauve “roses” on it. Not sweet peas, but definately floral and summery. Many of the planned items are trimmed with contrasting fabric or braid, affording opportunities to pull the outfits together. I already have the assumption that these items will be worn with silver shoes and jewellry. I am trying to keep silver as a theme. So, with the proviso that plans might change as we go along, here is my “Sewing with a Plan 2016 Plan”
Pack 1: Pink and bling
A 1969 Pucci evening trouser suit, (based on Vogue 2333) and an Yves St Laurent 1968 shocking pink silk evening dress, (Vogue 1897). However, while I am really pleased how the V 1897 has come out it does have a flaw. Also there is enough pink silk for an item with sleeves but I don’t want sleeves for the pant suit. I may change this part of the plan, but we shall see.
Pack 2 Purple
A 1966 Pierre Cardin suit (Vogue 1636) with white (or maybe silver for that true Cardin effect) trim, with matching light purple silk blouse. I showed my husband all my vintage designer patterns for suits or dress and jacket. This is the one he picked out – I was slightly surprised, but pleased, as it is such a dramatic style. I have made a bias cut Cardin skirt before so I am not planning to toile this outfit.
Combo:
A1960 Biki of Milan (Spadea NS-249 ) skirt in light blue gabardine and a Fabiani Mauve linen dress (Vogue 1065). The skirt pattern is really nice and just a bit different – although I get the impression it is designed for a tweedy wool, perhaps with a contrasting leather waist band/belt I love the swingy skirt on the dress, and am planning some dramatic buttons to lift it.
Wildcards
A 1960 Biki skirt in Iris silk (Spadea NS 249), a 1950s blouse in blue cotton (Simplicity 1278), and a second Cardin 1966 blouse (Vogue 1636)
To codify:
2 dresses
4 bottoms (three skirts and a pair of trousers)
5 tops (one jacket, one tunic and three blouses).
I am pretty pleased with this plan which I feel will give me a nice, coordinating summer wardrobe with pinks, mauve, purple and blue.
Rainshore Project Update 4
I mentioned that we are planning on calling our new home Rainshore. And, the power of the internet, I got an email from Esme, who lives there now. Her parents bought the house from my brother, James, who inherited it.
She sent some pictures of Rainshore, modernised. Her family have done a stunning job.
I was so interested to see these photographs and relieved that the renovation had preserved so many of the original features. Esme, who shares her name with my daughter, also told me that she was studying embroidery at college.
As for the New Rainshore we are making progress.
We got planning permission in October.
Nick has chosen all the fittings from the flooring, to the staircase, the woodburner, floor and wall tiles, paint colours, lamp shades, door knobs, baths and showers, where all the light fittings and plug sockets are going. He kept asking me to run into his workroom to look at pictures of taps etc. Then he would not be able to find the website. I introduced him to Pinterest. This has made life much easier. I think he has made some great choices. We now need to get all the costings to ensure we are within budget. If not we may have to make some cuts or compromises.
In the meantime the foundations are going in. Next time, with photographs.
Happy Christmas Everyone!
My Christmas present to myself
I am not a big one for Christmas presents, but on Christmas day I will be opening gifts with my husband and mother. The children and grandchildren will be with their Dad/Grandpa so this will not be a “family” Christmas in the true sense. Nick will be cooking and we will go to our favourite pub on Christmas Eve. I hope to watch a few old films (admiring the outfits), maybe a card game or jigsaw with my mum.
Anyway rather than expect my husband to read my mind I thought I would buy a present for myself. Jewellery is traditional at Christmas.
I had a hard time choosing what to give myself from Jill Bell’s amazing collection – in the end I went for the Gekko.
I love this pendant, and if I was richer, I would have bought the falcon skull too. Anyway I had such a nice time talking to Jill that I asked her if I could interview her.
Have you been involved in art and making all your life?
I loved art at school but I wasn’t very good at drawing. Now I keep a sketch book diary and by doing a sketch each day I have really improved. Also when I was young I used to love crafts, pottery, making things from kits. In the 1970s I was given candle kits, resin kits and even had a very small enameling kiln as Christmas presents! I still have the enamelling kiln – it’s just a simple electric plate on legs, with an aluminium cover – but it worked!
You have your own studio – do you work every day and how do you use your time?
How you do casting?
- You need two aluminium rings and some Delft clay – a sand-like substance that doesn’t dry out.
- Pack the clay into the bottom ring very well, press down the object you want to cast place the top ring on top fill with the clay.
- Split the rings and remove the object.
- Make a hole in the top ring to the void where your object was placed.
- Add the molten silver, let the rings cool, split the rings and you should have a solid silver copy of the piece.
If you are interested please watch Andrew Berry on YouTube.
Where is your inspiration from?
I have a few favorite pieces. One is my specimen quartz which I bought a couple of years ago, I loved it but couldn’t think how to set it safely. While trying to set a couple of opals I came across a plastic called Polymorph. You mould it in hot water and can create organic shapes with it. The plastic is then sent off to the casters, to be turned into a silver mount for the quartz. Another project was “Space, the final frontier!” I think my favorite piece at the moment is my Star Wars ship. This includes a couple of Argentinian meteors! I managed to cast a starship and set the meteor on the top.
How should your most dramatic pieces be worn – such as the nail bracelet or the skull pendant?
Sewchet’s Secret Sewing Santa #stitchingsanta
I haven’t made much in the way of preparations for the coming of Christmas. I made a dress, went to a Carol concert, and saw Ted in a nativity play. Kit was dressed as an angel but not behaving like one, so Esme is removing him from the scene.
However I did I sign up to join lovely Sewchet’s Secret Stitching Santa some time ago. I didn’t hear anything, and I was so busy with work and family, sewing, blogging and just living that Christmas preparations were more or less limited to opening the Advent calander with the kids. I vaguely noticed other participants were blogging about what they had made, sent out or even received. I wrote to Sewchet and she sent me the details again, which seemed to have been lost in inter-space. She also, so kindly, offered me home made goodies to include in the parcel!
Then I got home and discovered a parcel had arrived for me. I was so behind with Christmas that I still didn’t click. I thought it was something I had ordered – some muslin, or indigo dye.
So I opened in parcel in a desultory way. This is what was inside!
Want a closer look at the lovely card Secret Santa sent me – with a sweet, encouraging message and details on the contents?
In the end it worked out fine. I had a homemade item or two; one of my covered books, and a piece of hand dyed fabric from my indigo dyeing course. If I had had to make up something specifically I would have struggled. This year all my family are getting vouchers or cash.
I included a nice piece of stretchy Italian lace (the blogger I am sending this to loves knits) that Linde gave me, and a pattern that I think will suit her. I carefully wrapped it all up and included a card. As you can see I was not lying when I said I was not ready for Christmas. The wrapping paper and card are in some of my favourite patterns, and I love summer florals too, but not a reindeer in sight. I did look up where my giftee lives and I could have dropped it off on my way up North to see my Mum. But I thought that a living secret Santa might have been too much of a shock. I took it to the post office and hopes it arrives in time!
I will show what I got once Christmas actually arrives (not long now!)
Sewing with a Plan 2016 0.9 Vogue Paris Original 1897 by Yves Saint Laurent
OK! Normally I post my SWAP progress on a Saturday. Trouble was this Saturday I had made very little progress. I was still drying my tears after the wax incident which spoiled my gorgeous washed shocking pink silk following the indigo dyeing weekend.
I asked for advice about what to do and lots of you responded with your generous insights and suggestions.
A few of suggested your own wax withdrawal techniques – most of which I had tried, as you can imagine. So, accepting that the stains are probably permanent, many of your suggestions came down to covering up the wax stains, as listed below. I carefully considered all of these and I am most grateful. I spent quite a lot of time thinking about everything from
appliqué (Bunny)
cape or train (Felicia)
use a different fabric (with virtual swatch and local supplier suggested!) (Diane-Marie)
sequins, beads, crystals (Elle C, Mary Funt, Annie, Lyn B)
ethereal sequins (Mary)
colour blocking (Anna and Jane – Jane and I both have a bit of thing about silver pu fabric…)
lace overlay (threading lightly, Cherry, Mary Funt, Ruthie)
fabric paint (Mrs Mole – I did have a go at this, on a scrap)
embroidery (Jen)
machine couching (Chris)
chiffon overlay (Mary Funt, Chris, Jay, Sheree)
to silvery mesh overlay (Demented Fairy and Susie).
Finally Patsy Jean suggested cutting up my trousers. Which I don’t own, sadly. It was just a picture to show the provenance of the cloth – a Roland Mouret remnant.
Anyway I made a decision. I completed the dress with the stained and slightly faded piece. I thought I might do one or more of the suggestions once it was made. Although there is quite a few hours on the clock with this one I didn’t toile it, and frankly I knew I could do better. If I remake this dress there will a little tweak at the upper chest, and a slight alteration of the bodice side peice. I like making garments up more than once as it gives me a chance to perfect the pattern. I have decided that this glorious pink dress is no more than a wearable toile and I will probably make another version for the SWAP perhaps using the deeper purple, this time with sleeves.
In fact if I had hair like they had in the late 60s it would probably cover the problem area. And when I wear it on Christmas day I am as likely to get gravy or wine on it as anything else. I am just not a pristine type. I make clothes in the kitchen a few feet from the cooker. Once I get a sewing room I maybe able to keep things a bit cleaner and tidier.
A friend sent me this (from 1949) over the weekend.
When I have a sewing room I will wear a white coat.
I wore it for the Carol Concert on Sunday night. And we tried to get a photograph outside too. Sorry – the photos are not that good. But I do like this dress, despite that slight fullness in the upper chest – and those little stains at the back.
Dresses with Understructure – learning from Givenchy
Since falling for the Green 1955 evening dress I have been researching Herbert de Givenchy. He is most famous, perhaps, for dressing Audrey Hepburn. Isn’t this just lovely? A huge, deeply pleated skirt, attached to a slim yoke, coupled with a very neat shell bodice. This outfit must have quite a lot of support under it to look so dramatic.
Pink evening wear was obviously the name of the game in the mid 1950s and here are two McCalls patterns by Givenchy – we know that these two are supported by tiered petticoats the dressmaker could make at home.
This look was also developed for daywear in very innovative and surprisingly modern incarnations by Givenchy. Remember he had been working for Schiaparelli for a few years. In these dresses I think there is couture tailoring – padding, pleating, gathering, underlining and lining.
When we look at the evening wear there is more evidence of under structures possibly being relied on.
So in order to have a try at draping over understructures I made a hip belt with two “croissants” sewn onto them. I sewed a couple of matching kidney or crescent shaped articles and stuffed them with what my American tutor called “Polyfiller” – polyester, recycled stuffing. And then attached them to a cotton belt. It’s not very sophisticated but it did the job for my Givenchy attempts.
I have recently heard about an exhibition of 1850-1890 understructures at the Museum of Costume and Lace in Brussels. This goes on until April. My birthday is at the end of March so I have an idea. I will organise a weekend trip to Brussels to see the exhibition. Anyone want to come? Or meet us there?
Menswear Friday – Rion Willard
I have neglected Menswear for a while. I do appreciate my male readers and I want to try to write more about mens’ fashion, style and clothing. Because I don’t sew menswear much (sorry Gus!) I depend on men being happy to talk to me about their clothes.
I was at a “Property Professionals Breakfast” the other day (99% male, I am afraid), and one man stood out – Rion Willard. I was intrigued by his colourful outfit and I asked him to talk to me about his clothes, his attitude to colour and where he buys his clothes. He is a youthful, slim architect, who has a dramatic wardrobe personality. But maybe more traditional looking men could take a bit of inspiration from this lovely man.
What was your family’s attitude to clothes, when you were growing up?
I grew up as a mixed race kid in the heart of Croydon. My father is English and mother’s of Indian origin. She was a model in her youth and was also brought up in a strict Hindu family whilst growing up in tropics of Guyana. When she was 18 or so she left home on a ship to the UK, not wanting the constraints of her strict upbringing. As an act of liberation she threw all her clothes over board before she arrived. That kind of liberated self-expression rubbed off on me. Clothing to me embodies aspiration, flair and independence.
As an architect is there a link between what your design work and what you wear?
Oh completely. In fact one of my clients said I’m not afraid to be seen in a world of greys and blacks because I am always in colour. Architecture for me begins with the mind and body. It’s the first place we inhabit if you like. And I couldn’t think of a better way to see the beauty of life than through vibrancy and colour.
Does colour affect how you feel, or how people you meet feel about you?
Absolutely! Colour is extremely powerful. I find that wearing certain colours instantly change my outlook. I like to think of it as changing my frequency! It starts a conversation and other people tune in or are attracted to different frequencies. In architecture it is used to create a sense of space, serenity, magic and depth. Painters like Josef Albers, experimented with colour techniques with results he called ‘halations’ – an optical effect which gives a kind of resonance or vibration. That kind of powerful resonance lifts the human spirit. It’s something I wholly subscribe to.
Do you try to stand out or blend in?
Haha, if I’m being completely honest, I tend to stand out in my bold colour palette. I love to be radiant and playful at events. But I’m all about the context. I often go on retreat to a monastery and I thoroughly enjoy the simplicity of plain comfortable and functional clothing. I can let go and disappear into the landscape. It is equally liberating.
Where do you buy your clothes and what sort of styles do you look for?
I generally tend to go for slim cut clothing. A mix of high end suits for events and high street smart wear for daily shenanigans. Ted Baker, Paul Smith are always favourites…I love Oscar Milo in Spitalfields. Often I’ll walk around the high end design shops nick ideas and buy cheaper pieces. It’s having an idea that’s interesting. Although what sets all this off are my shirts which are made-to-measure. And it is not in anyway unaffordable as my partner introduced me to to getting them tailored abroad. Just get one shirt that is the perfect cut and fit and have it copied in numerous colours and fabrics if you like. I’m currently building a serious collection of silk shirts. The quality is super. And for around a tenner it’s a bargain!
I also love to pick up pieces and accessories when I travel. From Indian scarves to Chinese jackets. If I lived somewhere warmer I’d wear more traditional Indian clothing, I love the dohtis.
Do you and your partner ever dress as a couple or is it random?
Haha… oh there are no coordinated outfits in our house! We tend to challenge each other in a playful way or inspire each other. Yvonne is an actress and was made for the red carpet. I have a slightly more fresh and quirky presentation. We love dressing up together in a playful way and a healthy drop of competition!
What would your dream garment look like?
Indian bespoke clothing – but very understated, handmade, beautiful colour, and superb cut.
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