I already introduced my Sewing with a Plan outfit which is an embellished evening pant suit, inspired by Irene Galitzine (below left).
Irene Galitzine explained how she got started as a designer.
“I was one of Emilio Pucci’s best customers, but I got tired of seeing the same clothes I was wearing on other people, so I began making my own things,” she once said. “I put them in my first collection, and everybody went wild.”
So I bought the Pucci pattern (vogue 2333) as it is along similar lines, even though the smaller pieces (facings) are missing. Originally I planed to use some highly suitable stiff pink silk fabric. But I have other plans for the pink now. So until I have the fabric I can’t really get started. I need a bit of help please.
As mentioned previously this Pucci pattern is a 1970s spin or reinvention of the Galitzine, which is itself a development of the older Pucci look. Although the Vogue pattern provides a very good starting point for me it will need several changes to create a 1963 look. I feel like an archeologist scraping off seven years of fashion development to recreate the earlier aesthetic. And by the way my friend Sarah of Pattern Vault has a great post of this topic.
This weekend I started with a toile of the trousers. My pattern is s12 with 36″ hips which is fine on the waist but too small on the hips. The fabric has no stretch so the pants need to have sufficient ease for sitting and dancing. The pattern for the trousers on V2333 is just two pieces without a side seam. There is a facing at the waist rather than a waist band. Here are the alterations I have made to the pattern.
- separate along side seam, overlap at hem to create an additional inch at hip level
- increase the side dart to suppress the extra into the waist
- reduce the hem further from 22.5″ to 12″
- shorten slightly at the hem for ankle grazing
Then I made a toile. Hmm.
This is not the easiest pattern to alter either as there is only the inside leg seam. Nor is this the most beautiful toile I have ever made. However the fit is not bad in that the waist is the right size, the fit across the rear is very good and although we have some bagging at ankles and thighs this is easy to fix. I folded up an extra inch at the hem, and took in the inner thigh from knee to crotch by about half an inch each side of the seam. It is important, in my view, when make trousers with no give whatsoever (solid silk in this case) to allow enough ease and not create a completely skin tight look. These will be OK I think.
The tunic top also needed alteration. The pattern advises that we have a “loose-fitting” tunic. I measured the pattern (as I always do). The bust allows 40″ (I am 34″), and the hips are 48″ (for my 39″ hips). The Pucci tunic is slightly flared and has highly-embellished deep side splits. In order to allow sufficient movement I think with a tunic that measures 11” from the waist to the hem that I will need need side splits to encompass the hips and bottom. In order to make this pattern more similar to the 1960s version, modelled by Irene, I have made the following changes;
- remove around 4″ of ease from the width of the pattern, also making upper chest a little narrower
- adapt armholes to make it sleeveless
- dispense with collar
- alter neckline slightly to make it a little deeper
- reshape side seams to create a more rectangular (rather than triangular) silhouette
I don’t think that I will make a toile for the top as these alterations are essentially straightforward.
In the meantime here are some more pictures of Princess Irene in pants, and a green pant suit. I am thinking seriously of this sort of jade colour now I have chopped up my pink silk for the Vogue 1554 dress. It is sort of the colour of sweet pea stems and leaves, and it would work well with my vintage trim. As I mentioned earlier I need it to have a bit of stretch in it as well as a little bit of sheen, perhaps. I can find nice shimmery silk taffeta or dupion. I can also find a stretchy matt cottons and unsuitable slippery jersey. Ideally something that has heft and stretch. Could anyone help me with a fabric suggestion please?
I am really excited by this project!