1 Mar 2015

Nina Ricci Vogue Paris Original 1650 – Part Two

by | posted in: Finished projects, SWAP | 20

Does anyone apart from me, Lyn and Helen remember these? A polyester “permanently pleated” kilt, attached to a nylon jersey vest – suitable attire for little girls’ Sunday best. Often worn with an Acrylic Arran jumper over the top. Oh how the sparks flew as we spun around!

red girls kilt attached to a white bodice
girls kilt and camisole

During the 1960s a camisole and overblouse was a very popular and contemporary look. This was best achieved by attaching the skirt to a “camisole”, which is a French word for a vest, or short petticoat type undergarment that finishes at the waist. Rather than having a waist band the camisole held the darts or gathering and allowed the overblouse to sit nicely over the skirt without flesh showing, or a waist band adding bulk.

McCalls 7079
McCalls 7079

When I bought Vogue Paris Original 1650 I didn’t realise that the skirt was actually a skirt with camisole. But I made it, with the twist that the camisole is painted so it can be worn on show.

Vogue 1650 Skirt with handpainted silk Camisole
Vogue 1650 Skirt with hand painted silk Camisole

Although we have a soft crepe silk top, and a relatively heavy wool skirt, once belted it works nicely together. I even think with nude tights this would look nice as a summer outfit. It feels exceptionally lovely to wear. The pink in the 1950s belt is a bit on the yellowy side, but it is such a nice vintage item I got for 50p in a charity shop. It has landmark buildings from across Europe on it. Can you recognise them all?

In terms of making up this was unusual for me as I am not a great one for underlining. I prefer to line so that all the gubbins are hidden from view. So the top half, made as it is from two layers of silk is neat and everything is enclosed, but the skirt hem is attached to the green silk lining. I don’t really like it so I did it quickly, thinking I might go for a more traditional finish. The hem is supported with a 3″organdie bias strip. I shall wear it for a while to see how it performs.

I used an invisible zip, although a regular, hand stitched one was specified. I thought it might work better with the skirt portion.

I double stitched the skirt to the camisole, and I hand stitched the lining to the seam to help support the whole edifice.

Overall theskirt-with-cami is a comfortable and elegant fit. I actually like it a lot. I have the option of making the green skirt this way, or adding a waistband. Awaist band is moreversitile, but this method is very comfortable. I would certainly recommend it if you have never tried it since you were four years old.

20 Responses

  1. Demented Fairy
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    This looks great! (And I do remember them, I even had some for my daughters in the 80s. They’re a really good garment for little girls with no waists!) Hmmm, maybe I should make one…

  2. Jenny
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    Yes, I remember them too, I loved them although they were after my time. I was working then in an office and I wore those lovely tiny, permanently pressed skirts which was the grownup version. I love your version, although I don’t like the colour of the belt – it was the first thing I saw and it really jarrs.

  5. helen
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    Really beautiful! It looks like separates but with out any tucking in or bulk at the waistline.
    40 years ago on a Sunday morning I would have been in my tartan skirt / pinafore thing with a hand knitted jumper being frog marched to church for an hour of fun…..
    Love the belt – Big Ben, Brandenburg Gate (?), Sacre Coeur (?)

  8. Hélène
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    I had never seen that kind of construction before! Very surprising. I’m new to your blog and I’m wondering if you hand-painted the silk yourself? I love that.

  9. Joyce
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    Perfect! I love the whole thing, including the belt ,not just for the pink but also for its interesting embellishment. You look very much in your own skin, as it suits you to a T. I like your shoes too. This is one of my favorite. Awesome work Kate, love love love the painted top.

  12. Chris @ makeandwear
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    I had two of those kilt dresses as a child My mother often bought the same dress in different colours for my older sister and I. Which meant once I had grown out of the first one,I then had to wear my sister’s one! I love your grown up version. The painted silk top is especially pretty 🙂

  13. annieloveslinen
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    That’s a great look, I was intrigued to see how this would work, I like it a lot. I imagine that it’s economical with yardage too.

    The combo idea is inspirational for a special occasion like a wedding outfit.

    I remember my sister having quite a few tartan pleated skirts on nylon vests, the pleats were permanently pressed. I am older than she and I had woollen suits in gorgeous colours. The skirts had woollen straps that went over the shoulders and buttoned onto the waist, after many wearings my pleats were a bit haphazard but I loved them, I got to choose what I wanted to wear each day.

    I think that’s where my love for clothes started.

  15. mrsmole
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    Never saw anything like this in Southern California growing up but we did wear pleated wool skirts in Catholic school. Your final garment is just so divine and with the belt looks oh so classy! Guess the basic word to describe this look is comfortable…nothing binding or riding up, just sassy and so special with all your handiwork up top…stunning!

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