I am a little behind but I have started to make the jacket for my charcoal (or it is navy?) suit.
Pattern and design
This is an elegant, lined, collarless, cropped jacket with neck, waist and front bands, no side seam, with bracelet length two-piece sleeves. With top stitching.
I made a few altrations; I added 4cms to the length of the pattern pieces, but adding some at the under arm, and some just above the hem. It was a bit tricky due to the relative complexity of the design – four pieces, no side seam, and a panel on the CF and neck. The pattern is a b32 and I am b34 so I should have added some width to this jacket, but after measuring it I figured it had enough ease. I am not sure if this is a mistake or not so I have basted the main jacket pieces together in order to try it on for size. I have not attached the bands at the neck and front edge and hem. This will add around 2″ to the width (allowing for the button band overwrap). So, it seems big enough to wear over the overblouse.
The jacket is made up in the same deep greyish blue fabric I used for the skirt (with a camisole). For the lining I will use a plain turquoise silk – I don’t have the time to make a customised lining and sometimes simple is best. I don’t want a navy lining as that would be just too dull and deep for me. Navy is one of my neutrals but I prefer a lighter blue as a rule. I hope by choosing silver buttons and wearing this with a lighter layer underneath it, it won’t be too dark for me.
There are supposed to be five button with piped button holes. I just can’t face learning a new technique at this point. I need to get this jacket finished and move on to my other items. Also with adding length, and choosing a slightly smaller button for my jacket I think it needs six rather than five buttons. This is non-traditional – odd numbers seem to be prefered. However I think it will look better with an extra button, each placed 7cms apart. It’s only a matter of personal taste I think. I have some nice “burnished” silver buttons that look like they may have been made in the 1960s that I plan to use.
The jacket looks black in these photographs but it really is a dark bluish grey. Here it is with one of the sleeves basted in.
I am starting to smile! This jacket is hard work. Lots and lots of steps, including
- underlining and interfacing
- bound button holes
- slashing the darts
- opening the seams, pressing them, then slip stitching them down
Overall I reckon this jacket from start to finish will be about 60 hours work. However it is a lovely pattern and I think it will look great with the skirt I made previously.