Making up the draped skirt (flat pattern version)

Yesterday I explained how I made a pattern for a skirt with a side pleat. This pattern will work best with a plaid or tartan with medium body. I used some medium, stable, 100% woolen curtaining fabric (seconds) that I got at Oakmount in Burnley at £12.99 a metre. I really liked the blue-purple, light turquoise, grey and navy colour scheme. Full price is apparently £30 a metre, but the light blue wool is a bit “fluffy”. No problem for me – it adds a bit of interest.

Plaid Westwood skirt
Laying out the pattern

I suggested laying this pattern out at 45 degrees. When I actually got the fabric out I realised I wanted to match the side seam that is not folded. So I messed around a bit with the pieces until I had the right hand seam (featuring the zip) lined up (the picture doesn’t show how I did it, sorry).

Once cut out I applied iron on interfacing to the area that the zip was going in, but to be honest the fabric is very stable and gave me no problems whatsoever. But when you cut off grain you do have to treat those seams with respect. I actually stay stitched most of them. This also meant when I folded the side fold I stay stitched it to hold the angle firmly in place.

I didn’t fancy a waist band, so I created facings, to which i attached a piece of left over silk lining. This waist finish is very comfortable and as it sits a little low on the waist it can accommodate any slight fluctuations in midriff sizes.

One thing I didn’t explain on my previous post was that I partly closed the back dart and created a little stride width in the back skirt piece (you can see it on yesterday’s post if you look carefully at the paper pattern). With the turquoise skirt it was just a little bit tight over the knees and has begun to come apart at the seams. So this one is a much more comfortable fit all round, especially in terms of walking which is what I do rather a lot of. In fact in my job I do have to go up ladders or step through windows from time to time so ease of movement is very important to me.

That’s it. Simples.

I am pretty pleased with this skirt – it is nice and easy to wear but it has a little drama. It also goes with my new blue Barcelona glasses. I like the side pleat (which maybe could have been bigger) and the waist treatment. It is just the hem which knows it is not straight. In retrospect I have been thinking of separating the front and back sections with a side split at each side and actually finishing the hem on grain, so that we finish with a straight-grain hem, but the back and front go in different directions.

VW skirt plan
Sketch of hem finish

I can’t really draw what I mean. I may have to make one.

Post script

Since publishing this post, I found a picture on the internet of more or less what I was thinking. The back and front of this green skirt go in different directions, but the hem is stitched on the straight grain. (Not sure about the flash of red lining – that might be an issue).

Westwood green tartan mini skirt
Westwood green tartan mini skirt

12 Responses

  1. Gosh, that looks great on you. Love the colours, I get your drawing and navy glasses are perfect for you.

  2. What a great skirt, you must be happy with it.

  3. I get the drawing too! This is a good idea. I think this is the best draped skirt yet and I love your glasses.

  4. Looks great! I couldn’t figure it out from yesterdays post – my brain not your pictures – but seeing this made me ‘get it’! Very clever

  5. I like the colours on this plaid and they do go great with your specs and top, not to mention tights. I’m behind on my blog reading and haven’t read the earlier related post yet so will do that now.

  6. Besides being a cool skirt, this is a great outfit. Love the glasses, the combo of grey and blue.

  7. Very nice job. You skirt looks wonderful. I understand your sketch. I can’t tell how short the hem would need to be to follow the grain. It looks just fine as is.

  8. You have more fun sewing than anyone I know!

  9. Fabulous, love those pleats, adds so much interest. You going to have a go at imitating the Westwood skirt?

  10. Nice skirt! I like how you have the plaid matching up on your side seam.

  11. Love the blue skirt, and your sketch makes sense to me too. I love seeing plaid made up in an unusual way.

  12. As for the Westwood skirt, I find it disapppointing to see the hem. 1 inch lower, it would have blended in the darker threads. And the lining ? Is it done on purpose ? Weird.

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