Yesterday I explained how I made a pattern for a skirt with a side pleat. This pattern will work best with a plaid or tartan with medium body. I used some medium, stable, 100% woolen curtaining fabric (seconds) that I got at Oakmount in Burnley at £12.99 a metre. I really liked the blue-purple, light turquoise, grey and navy colour scheme. Full price is apparently £30 a metre, but the light blue wool is a bit “fluffy”. No problem for me – it adds a bit of interest.
I suggested laying this pattern out at 45 degrees. When I actually got the fabric out I realised I wanted to match the side seam that is not folded. So I messed around a bit with the pieces until I had the right hand seam (featuring the zip) lined up (the picture doesn’t show how I did it, sorry).
Once cut out I applied iron on interfacing to the area that the zip was going in, but to be honest the fabric is very stable and gave me no problems whatsoever. But when you cut off grain you do have to treat those seams with respect. I actually stay stitched most of them. This also meant when I folded the side fold I stay stitched it to hold the angle firmly in place.
I didn’t fancy a waist band, so I created facings, to which i attached a piece of left over silk lining. This waist finish is very comfortable and as it sits a little low on the waist it can accommodate any slight fluctuations in midriff sizes.
One thing I didn’t explain on my previous post was that I partly closed the back dart and created a little stride width in the back skirt piece (you can see it on yesterday’s post if you look carefully at the paper pattern). With the turquoise skirt it was just a little bit tight over the knees and has begun to come apart at the seams. So this one is a much more comfortable fit all round, especially in terms of walking which is what I do rather a lot of. In fact in my job I do have to go up ladders or step through windows from time to time so ease of movement is very important to me.
That’s it. Simples.
I am pretty pleased with this skirt – it is nice and easy to wear but it has a little drama. It also goes with my new blue Barcelona glasses. I like the side pleat (which maybe could have been bigger) and the waist treatment. It is just the hem which knows it is not straight. In retrospect I have been thinking of separating the front and back sections with a side split at each side and actually finishing the hem on grain, so that we finish with a straight-grain hem, but the back and front go in different directions.
I can’t really draw what I mean. I may have to make one.
Since publishing this post, I found a picture on the internet of more or less what I was thinking. The back and front of this green skirt go in different directions, but the hem is stitched on the straight grain. (Not sure about the flash of red lining – that might be an issue).