Blue Suit Vogue 7379

posted in: Finished projects, SWAP 2014 | 5

My SWAP suit

SWAP 2014 Set 1
SWAP 2014 Set 1

This suit started with one metre of tweedy fabric I got from my favourite fabric shop Simplyfabrics of Brixton. I bought 1m for a generic skirt when I had only made one skirt in 25 years. I didn’t know how much I would need as I had no idea what type of skirt I wanted. I liked the cloth with its off white, grey, dark blue and lighter blue yarns, and a soft cottony-wooly feel.  I wanted to make a 60s style skirt. This is a style I particularly favour. I am not keen on the classic pencil skirt, as I have a small waist but big hips. An A-line is more flattering. I like the combination of a slight flare with a relatively short (above the knee) hem to be flattering on someone with curves plus average length legs. But let’s face it, a pure A line is terribly boring and aging. Over the years I have owned some vintage sixties suits and rather than the skirt being an also-ran (like you get today, even with expensive brands), I noted lots of interesting and important design details on the skirt. Gathering plus darting, yokes, panels rather than side seams, in seam pockets – and usually lined. I bought a few sixties suit patterns online, mainly for the skirts. And Vogue 7379 was one of them.

Ideal for an Air hostess?
Ideal for an Air hostess?

As usual I had to work quite hard to get the skirt into the fabric, top and tailing in order to do so. This left me with insufficient fabric to create either a waist band or pockets. For the pockets I had plenty of left overs and used a light blue silk/cashmere for in seam pockets. But for the waistband I had no suitable woolen fabric. From the same shop I had bought a piece of good quality linen suiting fabric in a fairly lively blue. I was told it was Paul Smith, but who knows. It had a jagged piece cut out of it, and was sold to me for 5 quid. Not knowing initially what this was for (a bit firm for a dress) I cut the waist band from it, and found it a great success.

Of course when I later decided to build on this success and make a jacket I was short of material again. I managed to get the jacket cut out but had to sacrifice the pockets, which I really regret. The collar was made with the right grain only on the underside but it worked out fine. I used a crisp cotton organdie for the interfacing in the collar and front facing. I found some nice shell buttons at McCullogh and Wallis. I often get my buttons there although they can be rather expensive.

I lined both skirt and jacket in silk habotai, on which I had painted a subtle grid pattern in blue-grey.

There is a sequel to this story. I really wanted the pockets and was thrilled to find some more of the blue linen, on the roll, lying alongside all the summer dress weight linens. I bought two metres, thinking of trousers as well as pockets. Then, when I got home, I found there was no pocket pattern. I could draft one, but given the jacket is already lined, it is now a big hassle. Maybe?

5 Responses

  1. Kate, you could go the Chanel route, ans sew the pockets on by hand with tiny invisible stitches.

    • That is a great suggestion Manuela. I may do that. I love pockets. By the way I really loved reading about your Chanel SWAP on your blog – the jacket was stunning.

  2. Kate, I’m not blogging, I just post my projects at the Stitcher’s Guild forum. I’m currently making Little Black Jacket No2 and in the process revamp Little Black Jacket No1. The pockets are sewn by hand onto the finished jacket, thus my suggestion 🙂

  3. […] this worked quite well, I made up a 1960s shell top, from one of the patterns I used previously (for the 2014 […]

  4. Are we style twins? I have your suits.

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