Men’s style – choosing a good suit

posted in: Style advice | 8

Even in today’s more casual work place most men need to wear a suit. Here are some things to think about when choosing a good suit

  • colour
  • texture
  • style (eg single or double breasted, height of front fastening and number of buttons)
  • cut, ie the American (or Sack suit), Italian (or European) & British (or Savile Row).

Colour

Most suits for work are grey or blue – and within this there are lighter and darker tones, brighter and more muted colours, and there are some warmer versions. I have covered colour extensively already.

Texture and pattern

Very slim men can ramp up the texture and pattern.

Tom Ford
Tom Ford suit

If you are heavier, lighter weight fabrics, smoother cloth and plain or very subtle patterning are better.

Style

A single breasted suit with a curve at the front hemline will give an impression of length and stature, so this is the best look for a smaller man. A double breasted jacket with a squared off hemline has the opposite effect and will make a man look bigger. A very tall or large man will generally look much better in a double breasted jacket. However there is a DB fad going on at the moment and most men look silly in them. Only one of these three looks agreeable in the DB (the other two should burn them)

Prince Charles, Ryan Gosling and David Beckham in DB suits
Charles, Ryan and David

The smaller man who insists on wearing a DB jacket should consider two rather than three buttons, as worn by the Duke of Windsor and members of the Japanese royal family.

In terms of button placement think about the space created between your shirt collar and the first button. A lower front will make you look taller, whereas a jacket that fastens high will make you look shorter. Here an American politician shows how nice a deep V can look.

Elliot Richardson
Elliot Richardson

Cut

Now let’t turn to cut. There are three types of suit cut, and this affects the whole fit and look of the suit as well as the details. The thing is, each style suits one of the three different body shapes.

The Continental (Italian, or European) cut

Clark Gable in Italian suit
Clark Gable in Italian suit

This suit suits men who have an angular body shape. An angular body has

  • a difference of 7 inches or more between chest and waist measurement
  • shoulders obviously wider than hips
  • weight gain not obvious

The modern Italian style suit has become fashionable, and many of its features have been appropriated by other styles. But its architype would be the classic Brioni & Cardin suits of the 1950s. The shoulders are fully padded, with no back vents, flapless pockets and a definate tapering towards the waist for a pronounced V silhouette. Usually made from lighter fabrics to reflect the warmer climates on the continent.

Classic English – the Savile Row cut

Man in blue Marks and Spencer suit
M&S Savile Row suit

This suit suits men with a straight body shape.

  • less than 6 inches between waist and chest measurements
  • visually straight body (irrespective of weight)
  • weight gain usually results in a tummy

The suit typically has two buttons, two vents, a tapered waist and neat slim shoulder pads. The armholes are significantly higher than the American style; the fastened button is to the waist, making the jacket appear longer. The shoulders have less shape than the Continental style, but more shape than the American sack style. Most modern business suits conform to this shape. Traditionally heavier fabrics are used than in the Italian suit, due to our wonderful climate.

The American sack suit – less fitted cut

Ivy League students in sack suits
Ivy League students in sack suits

The sack suit has a more generous cut and suits men with a contoured body.

  • overall appears somewhat soft
  • when you put on weight you appear round and bulky
  • a thicker neck can give a stocky appearance

The Ivy League men of the 1920s made the sack suit popular.  The American cut suit typically has more natural shoulders without shoulder pads, one vent in the back, straight hanging lines and flap pockets. Traditionally there are three buttons, but only the middle one is ever used. The top button is often concealed as part of the lapel. The proportions are more generous with a  looser fit and wider armholes which give the sack suit its boxy appearance.

 

Old Mr Turner

posted in: Inspiration | 6

I love Turner – England’s foremost painter. I love the colour and the light in his painting – Turner’s amazing, superb ability to capture the environment, especially the sky and the sea. We are especially fortunate in London that many of his works were left to the nation at his death, and held by Tate Britain, where many are on permanent display.

My favourites have always been the work of the old man, whose work at the time (1840s) was ridiculed and disliked by art society in general. Apparently Queen Victoria hated his paintings intensely as they refused to conform to the realistic, sentimental paintings so fashionable at the time. When Turner was toothless (his death mask is on display), with misty eyes, significant disabilities, he painted the most magnificent paintings. For him the Sun was God and he tried to capture the essence of light in all his work.

Here is an iPhone representation of a post card I bought at Tate Britain last week, following a first visit to its Late Turner exhibition.

Turner The Blue Rigi, Sunrise
The Blue Rigi, Sunrise, 1842

I had never seen this picture before – it is a small (30 x 45cm) watercolour sketch, used to try to get work creating a larger, similar painting. But the price offered to Turner was offensive and he did not progress it. The brush strokes in the foreground look like a group of people, waiting for boats perhaps.

If you want a short history of Turner this account is very fair. But there is a Mike Leigh film out at the moment, Mr Turner, starting the fabulous Timothy Spall. Now I am a huge fan of Mike Leigh as well as Turner, but for me the film was a flop. Long and boring (I dropped off twice!), showing Turner as an introverted, grunting almost animalistic beast. Intellectual critics seem to have enjoyed it but to me it doesn’t begin to compare with Topsy Turvy about Gilbert and Sullivan, which is quite brilliant (and incidentally has wonderful costumes and music).

I have always loved the later works of Turner in their abstraction, the precursor of impressionism, with romantic roots. They are paintings of optimism and joy.

Turner Fishermen on the Lagoon
Fishermen on the Lagoon, Moonlight, 1840

I hope to use these images for silk painting inspiration.

But here is an old favourite of mine, Norham Castle, Sunrise (1845). This is one of his oil paintings, and is on display regularly if not permanently. It features in the Late Turner exhibition. The colours are so bright and beautiful, the blue and yellow with just a touch of reddish brown cow in the middle distance, set off against a background of subtle greys and browns. When I was at college I used this painting as inspiration for knitting, creating a piece with mohair wools. It had a pleasing and passing resemblance.

Turner, Norham Castle, Sunrise c1845
Norham Castle, Sunrise c1845

I saw this exhibition with my friend Galina, who is a keen and expert knitter. She turned up in a tomato red cabled sweater that looked fantastic. I gave her a copy of this post card and she gave me some knitting advice. I would certainly recommend the exhibition, and will go again, but you could give the film a miss.

Making Winter shorts – Burda 08/2014 110

posted in: Finished projects | 5

Shorts, for me, will always be associated with family beach holidays in Abersoch, Wales. My cousin Jane and I wore funny swim suits made with nylon and shirring elastic. We both had cropped hair, and did lots of dangerous jumping around. My mother didn’t believe in femininity for small girls, so all day long we ran about in shorts and T-shirts, getting brown and weather-beaten, before coming home for tea.

the beach, with huts, Abersoch, Wales
Abersoch beach

Wearing shorts to work, wearing shorts in winter, or wearing shorts as an older woman – all this seems slightly outrageous. But how silly! Shorts are just trousers with a higher hem. We don’t wear full length skirts all the time, so why should all our trousers come to our ankles?

So I made some winter shorts, using Burda 08/2014 110. I plan to include a pair of shorts in my Sewing with a plan (SWAP) challenge. The pattern I used suggests making the shorts in cotton velvet, but I substituted  boiled wool to match my Simplicity jacket. This is a first, trail run; hopefully a wearable toile. We make up a pattern first in inexpensive fabric to check the fit, the construction and if the shape works for us and our wardrobe. I never expect perfection first time round.Burda 08/2014 110

Burda 08/2014 110

Alterations and styling

I altered the shorts in the same way as I had adjusted the used the Burda trousers (grading the waist one size smaller than the hips). However with the stretchier cloth and the fuller cut of the shorts, I found the waist much too big. I took about four inches out and I still find them looser than I would like. However due to my relatively large hips I dared not make the waist any smaller for fear of not being able to put them on. I also decided against the turn ups, mainly because the fabric is rather thick. I actually liked the longer length which made the shorts look a bit like a divided skirt. However after reviewing this photograph I took an inch off the width of the leg at the hem, and tapered towards the pocket join.

burda 08/14 110 shorts in blue boiled wool
Burda shorts, blue boiled wool

Making up

The main thing that I would change next time would be the waist band. Although there was a contour (curved) waist band supplied, it did not have a sufficiently extreme curve for my waist. I have therefore shortened it  and increased the curve by slicing and slightly overlapping the waist band on its upper edge. Also in boiled wool the seamed waist band felt bulky, although I trimmed and trimmed before I attached it. I think, had these been an important project I would have used a different, lighter (but matching) fabric for the waist band, such as linen. At least on the underside, although I do like a contrasting waist band too. Taking some advice from Artisan’s Square, especially from Elizabeth and Ruthie, and from Mary of Cloning Couture I may try a bias piece for the waist band in future.

I wore the shorts to work, with the Simplicity jacket and got lots of complements. The boiled wool is really cozy and kept me warm in our cold December weather.

Woman in blue wool shorts suit
Simplicity jacket and Burda shorts

The verdict

I quite like wearing them. They are warm and snug without being restrictive. I feel a bit like a boy wearing tweed breeches, but it is not an unpleasant feeling. I think if I make a number of alterations I may create a wearable garment. They are certainly a nice change from a skirt, with thick tights and brogues.

Further development

In short I don’t love these shorts in their current incarnation, but I think they have potential. I have made a few changes to the pattern. I have:

  • altered the pattern to create a better fit on the waist
  • reduced some of the fullness from the leg
  • lengthened the fly to include a 7″ rather than 5″ zip
  • altered the contour waist band to provide a closer fit.

In the next version I shall use

  • a firmer, lighter cloth so I can have turn ups if I want them
  • shaped Petersham in the waist band to make it both firm and contoured
  • a trouser bar
  • belt loops (I invariably wear a belt – why do I always forget to add them?)

I have also thought about making a pair of reversible winter shorts with an elasticated waist. I know – it sounds like a revolting concept, one more suited to children’s wear, but I may play around this idea.

Trouser Suits?!

posted in: Style advice | 4

Nasty trouser suits

Here are the reasons why, to date, I am rarely seen in strides in the workplace.

  • I associate them with a casual, laid back approach – inappropriate in the workplace
  • my bodyline shape  (curvy, with big hips compared to torso, and average length legs) looks much better in a dress or skirt
  • a smart trouser suit looks best on slim, straight bodied women with long legs and a slightly masculine look (ie not Hillary and Angela)
  • shorter women who wear  trousers look better in heels (and I prefer flatter shoes)
  • I just don’t like the pant suit style, even on professional models. To my mind, Kate Moss, at the top of this post looks less good than usual in a pant suit.

To me these outfits say: mass produced Polyester Chinese suits from Next. They are a bit like a man’s suit, but not as nice. These are outfits designed for women at work, who don’t want to wear a tailored skirt. They are supposed to look professional, but they only look anonymous and rather sad – a really washed out version of men’s wear. I can’t bear them and would not be seen dead in an outfit like this. The area that the eye is drawn to is the horizontal line, bordered by the thighs. No wonder two of the models chopped their heads off.

Lovely trouser suits

However there are ways to wear pants to work that actually look cool, elegant and different.

  • try a different colour. This could be a less obvious neutral like dark brown, or a forest green. Putting a colourful shirt with it is so much nicer than a white or pastel
  • try a waist coat and important blouse instead of a jacket. This will have the effect of elongating and slimming the body.
  • use a luxury fabric like velvet, lace or leather

However these models are extraordinarily thin with especially long legs and high heeled shoes. The whole look is exceptionally vertical with hardly any interference with the up-down line. Neat or short hair (or a hat) keep the line clean.

How to wear  a trouser suit

For women who are  less than 5′ 10″ these tips can help

  • matching a jacket with trousers can create a vertical silhouette if you keep the colour dark and relatively unadorned
  • stick to deeper plain colours, avoiding the rainbow look
    pink, red and yellow pant suits
    Rainbow suits
  • vertical stripes (or top stitching or vertical braid) on your trousers are slimming. Beware the naff 3 piece pinstripe look because it is a parody of male dressing.
    woman in pinstripe suit
    Woman in three piece pinstripe
  • match your shoe and sock/tights colour with your suit
  • slim legged trousers
  • high heels (but do show the shoes, floor length trousers look silly)
    Stella McCartney suit
    Stella McCartney suit

    Any other tips, ladies?

 

 

This blog is 7 months old – which were the best posts?

posted in: Uncategorized | 11

This blog is about seven months old (just a baby really) and I have finally discovered the wonderful world of stats. The amazingly powerful software that is WordPress allows us to discover which of our posts are most popular. What do you think?

My most popular posts deal with men’s style, what to wear and what not to wear. And my all time most popular post was a funny, controversial post about What Men should Not wear to Work, read by over 800 people.

I think I knew this already. Friends still mention this particular post.  I enjoyed writing rules for what men shouldn’t wear to work, and finding some funny pictures.  I enjoyed having a gentle dig. A few became angry, especially a few chaps who felt that it was “sexist” to condemn men for their horrible clothes. And not all the rules were acceptable to all – quite a few people disagreed with the attack on the short-sleeved shirt (including my husband, who would never have worn one for work himself).  But many regular readers (including Maria) claim their husband has now stopped wearing clumpy shoes.

Two women at church
Maria

I feel this post worked well because it was funny, but apart from the wry observational remark, I cannot do comedy on a daily basis.

In fact all my posts about Menswear rate highly which tells me I need to write a bit more about men; maybe a Friday feature is called for.

Overall “style advice”, such as I can offer, is the top topic. Many readers do want to discuss how to dress, so I may spend more time on trying to help people with their dressing dilemmas. How not to dress for an interview got, and gets, lots of hits, with one careers advisor telling me she tells her clients to read it!

And even people who do not need, or want style advice themselves, enjoy my critique of  politicians and people in the public eye. I was glad to see Nicola Sturgeon taking my advice and getting a tartan jacket. If she changes her hair too she will have to admit reading “Fit and Flare”.

Nicola Sturgeon in tartan suit
Nicola Sturgeon addresses SNP rally

And I noticed that Lord Smith of Kelvin, who has recently reported on the powers our politicians now see fit to give to Scotland, also likes to wear a tartan tie.

Lord Smith of Kelvin in tartan tie
Lord Smith of Kelvin

I may have another look at politicians and people in the public eye. I don’t find “celebrities” very interesting but business leaders and politicians fascinate me. Any requests?

Recently I thought about dedicating certain days to certain topics, a la Wearable Wednesday on Pretty Grievances. I am thinking of organising my posts so that on specific days I cover specific projects, allowing men who like to read style advice but really don’t want to know much about sewing to just tune in on a Friday, say. Could I possibly arrange my posts like this?

Friday – Menswear

Saturday – SWAP update (until 1 May 2015)

Sunday – other sewing projects

Monday – guest post or personal profile

Tuesday – Style advice

Wednesday – more makes, including printing

Thursday – inspiration

Probably not. I have a busy, and demanding full-time job. I have a wonderful family I like spending time with.  The guest posts take ages (especially getting photos from other people and getting them checked). Most other posts are written at outlandish times, generally very early in the morning. So although a plan does have some appeal I do not want this blog to become hard work. To be honest I write about what interests me –  whatever takes my fancy. I write about what I am doing and sometimes I like to look at clothes people wear and to interpret them. I am also open to suggestions so please let me know what you enjoy reading.

 

1967 Simplicity suit – making the jacket

posted in: Uncategorized | 15

I have been making a few items to test the patterns and silhouettes I have chosen for my SWAP and this is one of the jackets. View 1, with buttons and button holes. This is a wearable toile – not my finest work but a well-made, wearable item in a fashion fabric, rather than calico.

Simplicity 7305 (1967)
Simplicity 7305 (1967)

Style and alterations

I find a historical size 12 about the right size for me, but I did lengthen the torso, just half an inch, above the bust in order to get the dart in the right place. This also made the jacket half an inch longer which is just fine. The sleeves were a bit long. I like them to finish, as in this picture, to reveal the wrist, so took out 1 inch from the length of the sleeve. I do not love patch pockets. This is because they are seen as the most simple to make, but if you don’t get them perfect, they give away that the item is home-made, and of course I don’t have them perfect. I have since found an excellent tutorial by Mary Funt which I shall adopt for the final version. Of course I could use a different pocket treatment, such as a welt with an oblong flap, but I feel the design is made for patch pockets, a tiny bit Chanel-like.

Fabric choices

I bought a piece of boiled wool at Simply Fabrics. It is a heavy jersey, pretty stretchy and a gorgeous blue, with flecks of navy and light blue. Both Esme and Bianca admired it and suggested it would work well with denim. Robert tells me it is a Nicole Fahri fabric and it is really nice. Very easy to sew (once stay stitched) and being both snug and warm while also feeling light. This makes me think it has polyester as well as wool in it. For the interfacing I used organdie and I have lined the jacket in painted silk.

Hand painted sleeve lining
Hand painted sleeve lining

I used some of my vintage buttons for the jacket. I didn’t have an exact matching set of five, but the ones I had have a great patina. I guess they are at least as old as the pattern (1967) or possibly older. They have a leather loop on the back for stitching rather than a metal shank. So they could be from the 30s or 40s, almost certainly from a man’s country jacket.

Vintage leather butotns
Brown leather vintage buttons

Construction

A nice simple construction. No ravel (it’s jersey), yet very stable. Bouncy but easy to press flat. Just great to ease in the sleeves. This is always my most favourite part of making a garment, especially a tailored one. This is how much fabric needed to be eased, and it went in perfectly.  Fitting and inserting sleeves all day would be my dream job (in the background my hand printed PJs!). This also shows the colour of the fabric better than the button picture above.

sleeve ease before attatchment
easing in the sleeve

Once all the ease in the sleeve is pinned to the jacket at the right point it is basted in, tried on, corrected if necessary, then stitched by machine.

easing a sleeve head with pins
Easing in the sleeve head

The jacket is ready for lining, the final pressing.

Simplicity 7305  jacket in boiled wool
Simplicity 7305 jacket

Making the suit

I don’t really care for the dull little A line skirt supplied with the pattern (although the blouse will be investigated at a later date). I think this suit may look good with shorts. Here is the pattern I have chosen.

Burda 08/2014 110
Burda 08/2014 110

Sewing with a Plan 2015 0.4

posted in: Inspiration, SWAP | 6

The Plan to date

I am making progress as most of the ten garments are now decided. Here is a summary of my sewing plan, so far. Each of the ten hand-made items needs a fabric and a pattern by Christmas. I will need to make up a few of the items before I make my choices as it is necessary for me to get a feel for how things work with each other. While it is generally true that if you make say a suit-with-blouse-set (like Simplicity 7305) they will work together I often prefer to mix and match. By making test garments (let’s speak French, the language of couture, and call them toiles) we can perfect the fit, and learn any new techniques. Also we can also actually try the toile on with other existing garments to check they work together. The SWAP is essentially about getting clothes that enhance each other to create an outfit. SWAP demands colours and fabrics which “match”, but also we want shapes and silhouettes that match too.

Garment 1 Squiggle jacket (top 1)

My two suits are different. The 1967 suit is a very simple, typical 1960s suit. A number of its features make it a relatively easy construction.

  • mandarin collar – simple to make
  • one piece sleeve (with elbow dart)
  • three piece bodice (ie one back and two fronts)
  • option of no buttons (but I will have buttons, and button holes)
  • patch pockets (although these are optional too)
  • easy fit shape makes it easier to fit
  • absolutely classic A line skirt (although I will probably substitute another pattern for the skirt)

It is lined – which I consider essential in a jacket –  interfaced and taped. But as a jacket project for a beginner, this is certainly the type of jacket I would suggest. I have chosen it for three reasons.

  1. Fewer joins make it suitable for my patterned fabric
  2. the squarish pattern on the fabric suits a squarish shaped jacket
  3. wearable – the comfortable fit, the mandarin collar, and it will go with a variety of skirts and trousers.

This week I made a toile of the jacket in blue boiled wool.

Garment 2 Squiggle skirt (bottom 1)

Although I am counting this as two garments I have not chosen the skirt pattern yet. This is where I may feature the wrap around skirt I have already toiled. However squiggle trousers have not yet been ruled out.

Garment 3 – Linen Blouse (top 2)

The suit pattern includes a shell top which is a possible pattern. I have a piece of dark grey linen that may work well for this top.

Garment 4  – Charcoal jacket (top 3)

In order to get a contrast with the boxy 1967 suit I have chosen a 1950s suit for my second jacket. This is a shape that I love to wear. It is a proper fitted jacket, although darted not pieced. I would very much like to toile this jacket before Christmas, possibly in red.

Garment 5 – Charcoal skirt (bottom 2)

The pattern offers two skirts – a pleated one and a pencil. I may make up one of these or substitute another pattern. I don’t have a pleated skirt and I do like them. I like pencil skirts now I have my own pattern. Either way it will be a knee-length skirt not mid calf. The other option here is trousers.  To be decided.

Garment 6  – Blouse to wear with Charcoal suit (top 4)

At the moment I am thinking of a formal work blouse, with a nice collar, probably in white. I thought about this Burda pattern, but possibly with different sleeves.  I have also been printing white beetles on white lawn so this fabric is a distinct possibility.

 

Garment 7 – Turquoise trousers (wildcard 1)

I am thinking of adapting Burda  11/2012 107D, narrowing the legs, lowering the waist band, and using a stretch cotton  fabric.

Garment 8 – Purchased top to wear with trousers (wildcard 2 – purchased item)

I have been looking at colourful cardigans to wear with these trousers, and found this one, which could work. It includes a blueish grey, along with pink, grey and yellow. Here it is displayed with pink and turquoise, two of my wardrobe colours.

pink, yellow and turquoise jumper
Brora Cardigan

I met up with my friend Galina and we narrowed down the cardigan options

  • find one in a shop
  • use heat transfer printing to put colour onto a white synthetic cardigan
  • buy a nice cashmere in say turquoise or pink and embroider it with colourful wool
  • try aplique on a plain cardigan
  • knit one (I have never successfully knitted a garment for myself although I did a fair isle children’s tank top years ago).

Garment 9 – Pink Skirt or Shorts (bottom 3)

If items 3 and 6 are skirts it is possible that I will make shorts in the pink fabric, to create an outfit with the pink coat. I only have a small remnant piece, slightly less than 1m. I will toile this pattern.

Garment 10 – top to wear with shorts/skirt (top 5)

I have a painted silk blouse in mind here, inspired by Bloomsbury. The light grey silk with a green, pink and grey design would be great.

Heavy grey silk painted
Grey flower pattern

Alternatively I may buy, if I see the right colours together, a Liberty print, or a colourful silk fabric. I do have a blouse at home which is a possibility. It is too early to say on this one. I have written about my painted silk experiments, and it is likely I will produce a brightly coloured painted silk top. No idea on pattern yet.

Garment 11 The coat (wildcard 3)

The coat was a relatively easy decision – the Burda boyfriend coat I had already made for Esme. My daughter’s choices in clothes always interest me as she is a similar shape (but two sizes smaller) and suits the same colours. But she has very different taste in fashion, and she takes many more risks on shapes than I do. So this was not a coat I would ever have selected for myself. But, having made it up for Esme, I have worn it quite often and I love it. It is very boxy, no waist shaping – it is even slightly tapered towards the hem. It is minimalist with shoulder emphasis. But it really is a nice garment – comfy, cozy, rather masculine – it goes over everything and pulls an outfit together. So I had committed to making this garment – in pink – before the SWAP was announced, and now I have the perfect excuse.

 

 

How to look glamorous in cold weather (Shop at Uniqlo!)

posted in: Style advice | 3

Man or woman, it is relatively easy to dress well when the sun is shining.  A pair of trousers and a decent shirt, or a pretty dress and a nice pair of shoes. Even when it is getting a bit cooler a woolen suit, with a shirt or jumper are just the ticket. But when it starts getting wet and windy, chilly and dark looking good is much more challenging. If you have a car then this may not be much of an issue. You can create your own micro-climate and wear the same thing, whatever the season. I get around with an Oyster card so standing at a bus stop in pouring rain, or trudging up the road in snow, is all in a day’s work for me. I popped round to see one of my sons on a cold day, and found in him in his  salopettes  (padded ski trousers) – it works but it is not workwear.

Here are a few tips on how to deal with English weather during the working week.

Layers

Everyone knows “layers” is the answer to English weather. Consider a base layer. In my opinion Uniqlo long sleeved vests and long johns are just the ticket (the latter under trousers). Made from synthetics they provide a very fine layer of warmth under the clothes. If your office is cold or you work outside proper underwear will really help. Additionally the Japanese firm provide some lovely colours and patterns, so that if your “vest” shows under your blouse or jersey it looks like artful pattern matching rather than your underwear.

Uniqlo also do the best cheap cashmere. The colours are great, they are less than £50 (and often discounted to £40) and although not the very best quality they are good enough. Cashmere is, in my opinion, the softest lightest way to wear a jumper. Also, due to its luxury connotations, it makes suitable work wear with or instead of a shirt.

red and pink uniqlo cashmere
Uniqlo cashmere

Raincoats

In the UK rain is always a possibility. My best tip is to get a quality raincoat. For years my coat of choice was a Barbour, an English brand, well-designed to cope with English weather. Although this is a country item, it is also something of an upper middle class signifier, and can be seen on city types on the tube. Traditionally in khaki green, it also comes in black. The company supply a zip-in furry lining (in teddy bear brown), and rain hoods (for the ladies) are also available. Don’t buy a ladies’ Barbour hat (or you will look like Camilla). Once you get into work the coat comes off and, hey presto, you look normal. Well, if you are Cary Grant, you look better than normal.

cary grant with light stone raincoat and dark suit
Cary Grant in traditional raincoat

Alexa wears her Barbour over a dark suit, pie-crust blouse, large pearls and shoulder bag, channelling Princess Diana. The dark green works well with her colouring.

alexa_2151244a

Leather, Fur and feather

My other favourite tip is to steal from animals. Sheep, ducks and cows to be precise. All these animals stand around in fields or float on British lakes, whatever the weather. They are made to resist the elements with their strong skins, fur and feathers.

A sheep skin coat will be the warmest possible item for snowy weather. I have two. One is from the sale at Pringle; the other is a 60s Danish  coat several sizes too big, that I wear with a leather belt. Mostly these coats are just too warm for travelling in the tube and are just kept for when the weather is extreme. This shearling jacket from Burberry is a nice shape but is not big enough to wear over a jacket.

Reddish brown Burberry fitted shearing coat
Burberry shearling coat

Alternatively a leather coat will keep most of the rain out and most of the heat in. Black is a bit obvious. If you get one make sure it suits you and does up properly. Too long and you will look like a time lord.

Then there are the ducks and geese to thank. My standard daily winter wear includes a down jacket, from Uniqlo. The great advantage of down is that it is both light and warm. I often wear a slim down jacket under a suit jacket, in the same colour. It makes me look a little bit bulky, and I would generally take it off when I warm up at work. But it provides the warmth needed first thing in the morning when I set out. I have several – in navy, dark green and dark brown. Uniqlo also do a very light weight sleeveless jacket which would serve the purpose of a warm jacket lining too. Here is a nice look from Dressed to Kill.

Red down jacket under tweed jacket
Feather lining

I also have a couple of Uniqlo down jackets that go over a jacket – more like an anorak. These are probably more of a weekend wear look, but if chosen carefully in terms of shape and colour can be worn over workwear instead of a rain coat. Have a look at the best of +J – the Jil Sander range – fabulous design at Uniqlo. I love the brown coat and the navy pencil skirt as well as the shaped down jackets.

A great coat

A smart option is to wear a good quality, tailored coat. This is a great solution for men, and suitable coats are available in men’s shops. A traditional item, which requires an umbrella in case of rain. If you make your own clothes the challenge is to make a coat

  • in a shape that flatters your shape
  • in a good colour for you (probably a neutral)
  • that will comfortably fit over a suit (with sufficient ease)
  • and keep you warm and dry (wool is the best fabric for this)

My mistake was making a couple of coats that will not accommodate a jacket. This means you look nice on your way to work, but when you take your coat off you look unfinished and cold. Here is smart and warm outfit; a lovely coat, coordinated with gloves, sensible footwear and a hat.

1960s coat
Nice coat

Carry a umbrella

I go for the smallest, lightest ones available, but tend to lose them. Some of my best ones have come from a pound shop in a down pour. All of them have the risk of reversing on a very windy day. Rather than black choose a brightly coloured one, or a pattern that goes with your coat, especially if your coat is a dark neutral. These, from London Undercover for Liberty are nice.

Liberty print umbrella
London Undercover umbrellas

Boots

Thankfully women can wear boots all day at work if they are smart and comfortable, although leaving a pair of shoes at work to change into is obviously a good idea. I think boots need to be water resistant if not waterproof. You never know when you are going to walk through a puddle. For work the shape should be streamlined and elegant, without too many bells and whistles. And flattish rather than fetish.

Knee high simple brown boots from Russell and Bromley
Russell and Bromley

If black is your neutral (for people with deep colouring) then black boots are fine. For others dark brown (cools), tan (warm) or lighter browns (light). If you want to elongate your leg, and disguise ungainly ankles, wear tights and boots in the same colour.

Lace ups or short boots

If you wear trousers on cold, wet days then don’t match them with a summer or high heeled shoe. Wear flat lace-ups, or elegant short boots, which will protect your feet from the elements and ensure you are not tiptoeing through the puddles. It is worth buying sensible footwear which will ensure your feet are dry and warm when you get to work. Gortex works a treat but most of the styles are country rather than town.

Hats

They say keeping your head wrapped up is the key to feeling warm and comfortable. But there is nothing like a winter hat to undermine your sartorial achievements. A beanie on a man in a suit is just about acceptable if he is young and cute. Otherwise try a proper hat. This can be a bit of a nightmare too as few men have a clue about hats these days. Look at images from the 1950s, and obey the hat rules.

  • make sure it is the right size (Don Draper’s is too small, in my view)
  • if you have an angular face wear an angular hat; softer shapes suit a more curved face
  • the colour should complement your colouring and suit or overcoat
Frank Sinatra in a hat
Frank

There are more choices available for women – fur hats, cashmere pull ons, berets, hoods – consider wearing a nice hat rather than just a practical one.

Scarves

A warm scarf is adaptable and can be bundled up around the face and neck, but unloosed if you start to perspire. A scarf can really bring an outfit together if the colours are carefully chosen, and for men it is a great excuse to wear some flamboyant colours with neutrals.

Man in red scarf with dark coat
Red scarf

The truth about Pattern Magic

I had a go at making the Ball Shaped Accordion (jabara) sleeve. This is featured on the cover of Tomoko Nakamichi’s Pattern Magic 2. Isn’t that pretty?

front cover of Pattern Magic 2
PM 2 “the Sleeve”

Here is some inspiration. I saw this jug in a Seville museum and my mind went “ping” – let’s make a simple dress with a globular sleeve. Maybe in light, silvery grey?

Silver jug Spanish
Silver jug in Seville

The instructions are fairly detailed and with sufficient concentration and patience not hard to make. I used calico to make the jabara.

How to make accordion sleeve Pattern Magic
Instructions

Here is the jabara. It’s quite beautiful and pleasing in the calico.

Pattern magic accordion sleeve
Accordion sleeve, muslin

I began to imagine it in linen, on the dress-in-my-mind.

But look again at the front cover of the book. There are three large pins, artfully arranged. The “sleeve” is pined to a half bodice toile. It is just the same as mine. Just a toile. It is not a sleeve!; fur coat and no knickers! It has no back to it. It is just a flap, pinned to a bodice.

I turned the page and realised while we have detailed instructions on how to make a ball shaped jabara, no clue is given on how to make a sleeve. And often this does not matter because we seamstresses are clever and creative, but reader, this one defeated me.

The thing with a globe is that it is circular. The thing with an arm is that it generally lies against the body so the portion of the sleeve that doesn’t show to the world needs to be fairly streamlined and flattish.

I tried making the jabara into the front of a two piece sleeve. I tried to make it work as a kind of puff sleeve. I tried making a cuff for it. I played around with a leg o’ mutton version where the jabara extended into a long sleeve. I tried a number of techniques for actually inserting it into an armhole. Everything I tried distorted the globe and made it look horrible. There was more chance to work with it longitudinally, or horizontally. Below it is allowed to droop when anchored with a priceless Staffordshire figure on the mantlepiece. The only solution I could envisage was somehow mounting the globe on an underlying sleeve, but I think that is a cheat as it becomes embellishment rather than a sleeve.

Pattern Magic sleeve
chrysalis shape

And this is the truth about Pattern Magic. Many of the projects are lovely intellectual experience. They take us out of our comfort zone and challenge us to think about form, cloth and pattern cutting in fresh ways.  Some of the designs are very wearable and there are some super versions out there. Have a look at Sew2Pro and Carolyn’s blogs to see what can be done. But some of the ideas are just ideas, and I do not believe anyone, least of all Tomoko herself, have suceeded in making a sleeve out of this. While it can be fun to make objects out of cloth I was defeated in my desire to make a jabara sleeve.

I wonder if anyone else has a solution to this puzzle?

 

Teaching a complete beginner

posted in: Finished projects | 7

My lovely daughter-in-law Bianca is off to Brazil today,  and she wanted to make something to wear in the hot sunshine. She is a complete beginner when it comes to sewing and using a sewing machine. In fact, she tells me straight away the last time she sewed something was Barbie outfits with her Grandma. She had never used a sewing machine, and had never made a garment.

I was glad that chose a nice simple top from a website called A beautiful mess.

Pattern for drawstring top
Drawstring top (pattern)

It requires a few measurements but no pattern, so we set to work. Bianca selected a bright viscose fabric from my cupboard. By choosing a check she found she would have some lines to work with. Something as simple as using the shears the right way round, and how to pin fabric together, needed to be transmitted.

Young woman learning dressmaking
Bianca cuts the cloth

Bianca was a bit worried about the speed of the machine so we set the speed to tortoise-slow. She felt it was a bit like learning to drive and she sewed nice straight seams, following the pattern on the fabric. It went off a little towards the end, giving her the opportunity to learn how to use a seam ripper.

Young woman using a sewing machine
Sewing up the straps

Bianca is good at ironing, but today she learnt to press. First to set the stitches and then to press open the seams. I emphasised how important it was to press the cloth after every procedure.

Young woman ironing
Pressing open the seams

Bianca is a perfectionist and I would say she has the potential to become a good seamstress. She works neatly and methodically, and is keen to get it right. Sewing down the seam allowances to create arm-holes required Bianca to pivot in the cloth and to come up the other side, a technique that will be useful when she comes to zips and button holes.

Close up of fabric with stitching
Nice even seams Bianca!

Sewing long straight seams to create the casing, and the hem took a hour or so. The way that the top layer is pushed forward as you sew was something I forgot to mention. We put it right with some tiny pleats on the wrong side, and I showed Bianca how to keep the fabric slightly taught  in order to keep the two layers moving at the same speed.  When you have been sewing for years you don’t necessarily remember what it is you do to get a good result. When it came to inserting the ties into the casing I started looking for a hair grip or safety pin. Bianca used a pencil and had it done in double quick time. Then a final press and she put the top on.

Girl in home-made summery top
Bianca’s first ever hand made garment

 

Girl in brightly coloured lose top
Back view

What a pleasure  to teach someone who wants to learn, listens carefully and has sufficient patience to follow the task through. To be honest I thought the pattern might be a bit too billowy. But I think Bianca has a good understanding of her own figure, and taste, and actually chose something that flatters her full bust and slim legs. Doesn’t she look great? As a first attempt I would certainly give her 10 out of 10!