Comfortable clothes
Recently I have been having an email discussion with RuthieSews about the question of comfortable clothing.
It is such an interesting question. In my view uncomfortable clothes are those which are made from irritating fabrics, or where the fit is wrong – too tight or loose.
When watching (not for very long, mind you) an edition of Big Fat Gypsy wedding, the commentator remarked that from a very young age the gypsy girls get used to wearing very heavy uncomfortable clothes, and they “never once complain”.
And this patient acceptance contrasted with my own early experiences. I am afraid I absolutely refused to wear wool at all, because it was “itchy”and uncomfortable. I never had a coat growing up, despite my mother’s many attempts to buy one for me, settling instead on a “windjammer” whatever the weather. She once produced a heather tweed coat, with a bit of maroon velvet on the collar, and tried to convince me that this would be nice and soft on my neck. To this day I would rather be wearing a zip up hooded jacket – my current ones are filled with snuggly down – rather than a scratchy coat.
I am pretty averse to discomfort. One of the reasons I rarely buy from Primark (except for the excellent stretchy cotton Ts) is that the sizing is so rough and ready. “8/10” anyone? And the fabric used is so skimpy (I found out why on a visit to a pattern cutting department) – in order to keep the prices low they save on fabric at every turn and this creates considerable discomfort in the wearer, with the grain twisting through the day and the hems pulling at every opportunity. I swear they are alive.
If you are a home dressmaker you can make clothes that fit, in the right size. You can choose fabrics that are soft, sensuous, strokable, gentle or delicate. When we say goodbye to RTW’s restrictions we soon create a truly comfortable wardrobe. One reason my middle son George wears grey track pants at home is that he finds them very much more comfortable than off-the-rack jeans which are cut a bit too narrow for his shape. If I really loved him I might make him a pair of jeans that were both soft and the right size and shape.
The fabrics I find most comfortable are the natural ones
- cotton
- linen
- silk
- non-scratchy wools next to the skin (eg cashmere)
- feathers (best enclosed for warmth)
- natural fur
- leather
I also can’t stand tags inside my tops, scratching my waist or back neck all day. I cut them off even if it means restitching the side seams. I will not wear high heels, and in service of happy feet I will even wear (smart) trainers for work. I don’t think I could bear any constricting undergarments like Spanx or a girdle. In fact I can’t be doing with suspenders and stockings or even hold ups, except on my husbands’ birthday (joke). I like softer fabrics that feel nice when I pick them up and put them on.
However, and this is where I part company with some ladies, I don’t want to focus on comfort to the exclusion of all else. Here a famous actress dresses down with jeggings, Uggs, white vest and unstructured grey cardi. She is pretty (and fully made up) but this is only one step up from appearing in your Jammies in public. I am sure I am not the only one who changes into my PJs, or something very soft and relaxed at home. At weekends I usually wear jeans and a T-shirt. We all do it, especially when we are not at work, but as competent seamstresses we can make comfortable, stylish clothes that we were not be embarrassed to be seen in.
The problem with a very “comfy” wardrobe is that it can look dishevelled and careless. People who put on what they took off yesterday, or stick to black or grey because it is easy, or always choose elasticated waists or stretch fabric can communicate a “couldn’t care less message”. They may hang on to clothes that are worn out and no longer fashionable just because they are comfortable. Unfortunately these items may make you look worn out and dated too.
In conclusion comfort – and fit – is of the highest importance unless you are having a gypsy wedding (in fact many wedding goers look uncomfortable at with their head to toe outfits and fashionable high heels). But don’t use comfort as an excuse for looking like a slob.
Finishing the circle dress
This is the first time I have designed a dress through the modelling on the stand approach.
In fact it is probably the first dress I ever “designed”. I have made patterns to my own design before but generally these would be a modification of my standard dress or torso block. These were classic designs such as a princess seamed flared dress, or a fitted jacket, where instructions were available from a book or a tutor. My design elements were limited to the length of the jacket or the width of the lapel, for example.
This dress was something I conceived in my imagination, made a sketch, modelled it on the stand, created a paper pattern, and then made it up.
Everything about my circle dress required a conscious decision. Everything gave me pause for thought. Like an old-fashioned recipe book I didn’t have a single picture to give me a clue. When I started out I didn’t know how I was going to construct this dress. I had no idea how I would deal with the yoke, the grain lines, the colour scheme or the chevron pattern. Of course I didn’t know how much fabric I would need, or where to put the pockets, or even if I should have pockets. With the top stitching I needed to decide which seams to top stitch, and with what, and in what colour. So I thank you for your help along the way with your suggestions, and most of all your encouragement.
Pattern
I have described how I made the pattern for the dress by creating a yoke with a deep V (so the dress goes on over the head) and then draped a right-angled triangle of cloth from the straight grain side seam to the CF, which is on the cross grain. The pattern itself was immense and tricky to handle until I sliced it into pieces.
I adapted the yoke by reducing the width at the shoulder. It now follows the arm line rather than jutting out slightly, and I think this just brought the whole yoke into proportion. In addition I slightly deepened the armhole. I wasn’t sure about this. The original close fit around the arm was rather elegant – now the whole top area feel a bit more blousey. I was worried about showing the bra, which is a slight risk. But it is much more comfortable.
Fabric
As this was a toile I used cheap cotton lawn in four shades – navy, two brownish shades, and white.
Construction
I made the yoke first. The straight grain is along the lower edge of the piece, and I used fusible interfacing to back it. The yoke had to be strong enough to support the whole nine yards (more actually – it feels a bit like a bundle of laundry). I joined the yoke and its facing at the neckline. I put one line of top stitching on the CF seam so that the yoke was not so “white”. I used a brown thread.
The yoke sat on Camilla for a few days while I thought about the skirt.
I made the skirt by cutting out the chevron pieces so that they joined each other with at least one straight grain edge. This made joining the pieces very straight forward and easy to sew. Sitting there doing lots of straight seams, reminded me just how pleasurable it is to stitch on the straight grain. I enjoyed getting my seams nice and straight, and pressing them open. Then I did top stitching – with navy thread on the brown, and brown thread on the navy – along the seams that joined the sections.
The CF, CB and side seams were a little bit more tricky. I had to match the chevrons, and the CF and CB seams were in danger of stretching. But it went together surprisingly quickly and created a nice item in itself. I did think twice about discarding the yoke and asked for your feedback. I nearly left it out, and may well develop this pattern as a non-yoked item. I was really worried how closely it resembles the kind of garment you either graduate or sing in.
The two most tricky bits of putting it together apart from the grain and top stitching were how to finish the armholes and how to attach the dress to the yoke.
I tried bias binding on the underarm but this felt stiff due to the dress fabric being so lightweight compared to the purchased bias binding. So I deepened the underarm style line and made neat facings for them. With the yoke I stitched the dress sections to the interfaced yoke. I then folded the front of the yoke over the interfaced facing, and hand stitched the yoke to the dress. I considered more top stitching, but left it out. It wasn’t the most elegant solution. I think if I made it again I would have to think this through, and see how such a yoke is finished traditionally.
The hem was just turned up and machined. It was a long curved seam, but with a little tension it stitched up OK.
Verdict
I have worn this dress out to the park on a nice sunny day with brown trainers. I enjoyed wearing it. I even liked the white yoke.
I enjoyed thrusting my hand in the pockets and giving it a twirl. It’s swishy and fun; dramatic and comfortable.
It definitely looks better with the belt but could be worn without one on a different figure, or in different cloth. Thank you Esme for taking the pictures!
I would like to make it again, perhaps in a translucent fabric like chiffon or perhaps a slightly heavier drapey silk. On the other hand the full floor-length skirt looked a bit like a 1950s evening dress, or even a Vivienne Westwood, so I can imagine it in a slightly firmer cloth. With time I could develop this design for a really nice evening gown or even a wedding dress. Whatever. You can tell this dress makes me feel happy!
Old Street Pop Up shop
I went to a “pop-up” shop today, run by one of my Morley college tutors, Lynda Kinne and her husband Daniel. They are a very dapper New Yorker couple, dressed head to toe in their own designs. If you have a minute, or are passing through the Hipster Hub that is Old Street roundabout, just duck down into the tube and encounter a microcosm of thriving entrepreneurialism. There are varied food outlets, jeans you can sleep with overnight, flowers, and clothes as well as the usual key cutters, dry cleaners and newsagents.
Pop up shops are such a great idea for companies which don’t have enough stock to keep a shop permanently on the go, but do have something quite wonderful they want to share with the general public. As a property developer I wish we used empty commercial units more often for this kind of purpose, although location was of critical importance for the Kinnes. Their company A La Disposition appeals to a very discerning crowd.
In this little shop, called Anatomie, Daniel and Lynda offered two types of perfume – their own Intangible (for men and for women) in a black skull, and a rival product with a real concrete stopper.
There are obviously clothes for men – knee breeches, elegant deep striped shirts with lovely details, trousers with diagonal button flies, the occasional piece of knitwear, – mainly in black, with a little grey. This is bravado tailoring at its best. And for ladies, more black – heavy woolen tunics with recycled leather, cool skirts, evening dress; the odd white item – tops with large carbuncles and intricately pleated skirts; and lots of texture within the restrained black/grey/white palette. An evening dress in silvery fabric that looked like it was covered in folded envelopes; a cute little girl’s gym slip and some amazing statement hats.
It was day one and they had virtually put the whole thing together themselves – designing, pattern cutting, making up, labelling, transporting, displaying and running the shop. Even building the display units! Those who think they could make a living with their own “range” of amazing clothes – beware – this is the hardest imaginable work, with the longest hours. As well as running their business, and continuing to churn out the most creative ideas, this pair also care for their daughter and carry a heavy teaching workload. Long hours, many challenges, and they remain charming, friendly and willing to pass on their skills to countless amateurs like me. London is lucky to have them.
I am in total admiration of the couple behind this company. They took the shop not just to show their wares, but also to provide an opportunity for other designers to share the space, and the limelight. As I visited on opening day they were still waiting for a consignment from LA to arrive. If you love unique designer pieces (and wear a lot of black) you may find a superb outfit. Go soon as it will “pop down” on Saturday night (26 July).
Dracula Fashion
I have recently read Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Available as a free download on Kindle, it is a Victorian melodrama of the first order and surprisingly readable if you like all that sort of thing. Not my usual choice of book but to be consumed before a visit to the place where Count Dracula was supposed to have lived (in fact the book was written in Whitby, Yorkshire).
The Castle is absolutely lovely, and not remotely scary. It is very old – the Turks established a gate there in 1211 – and was given to Queen Maria (who is happily related to the British Royal family who like to pop in to visit) in 1920. She used it as a sumptuous summer residence until the Communists took it over in 1957. Narrow winding stairways lead through 60 timbered rooms, many connected by underground passages which house collections of furniture, weapons and armour dating from the 14th to the 19th centuries. If you like Arts and Crafts style you will love this castle. I have lots of pictures taken inside, but the website is very good and comprehensive.
I was most interested in Queen Maria.
She had a very artistic disposition and created some lovely little areas in her summer palace. Everywhere there are inside-out spots where one can sit and look out. It feels small and intimate with a warm, woody smell, and there were some tinkly angel bells that I naughtily rang. We liked the thick white walls and the dark timber and how she had created all these sweet little lay-bys. Imagine sitting in this recess, right at the top of the house, enjoying a log fire on a cold night, and then wandering out to the loggia for something to eat, or just to sit and watch the moon. Or maybe for vampires!
She loved the medieval style of dress popularised in the UK by William Morris, aided and abetted by a commitment to Romanian national dress. embroidery and other crafts. I previously wrote about the Romanian blouse, and in these photographs you can see some very fine versions. She enjoyed dressing her whole family in picturesque outfits. In addition she combined an interest in national dress with a fascination with gorgeous, priceless jewellery. The amazing Cartier tiara (top middle) features diamonds, pearls and sapphires.
There is a Pathe newsreel about Queen Maria, showing how she loved walking amongst “the peasants” and nibbling on their fruits.
Vogue 7133 – making up the dress
In a previous post I used this dress pattern as an example of what it makes sense to do before you start to actually make a garment.
Having written the post I thought I might as well make the dress.
I love it. The colour, 1967 style and fit are just great. I love it because it is rather loose, but it is also smart and tailored. Unfortunately I don’t think I will ever wear it.
I followed the instructions to the letter and underlined the dress. The crispness of the silk organza undoubtedly helped the linen to take the required form. I have underlined with organza before but have usually added a lining too. This time, as an experiment, I did not. I knew that many couture and designer dresses are made with underlining only and thought I would give it a go.
I did depart from the pattern in one respect in that it proposed that the seams were oversewn by hand. Instead I finished all the seams either with a zig zag stitch, or with the overlocker.
A mistake, I think. I like a lining in a dress. It feels so soft and luxurious. It slips on. It sparks joy in me. It is practical too – if a dress is lined I don’t usually finish the seams at all. They do unravel a little bit, but the lining prevents most of the wear and tear. This dress has the underlining and finished seams and I just can’t stand wearing it. I did get a bit sunburnt at the cricket this week, which has made my upper chest a little sensitive. But the organza feels scratchy and uncomfortable.
However the style of this dress is right up my street. I love the fact that it is supposed to be shift-like and loose. I made a size 32 bust (I am 34) and it still feels very comfortable. Have you ever noticed that a garment made with sufficient ease always makes you look a little smaller and slimmer than a garment that is too tight?
I think I may well make up this dress again in another colour, but with a lining, or without underlining. Have you ever had a scratchy dress?
My new favourite colour
Remember Pantone Radiant Orchid? Last year this was launched as the “colour of the year” by Pantone, a company which seeks to capitalise on colour trends, which clearly change from season to season and year to year. And when it first came out I thought it was very bland, a light, muted sort of cool shade. And I decided immediately it was not a shade for me.
Radiant Orchid. Sometimes the name affects you. I don’t dislike orchids, but it is not the sort of flower that appeals particularly. We have them in all the supermarkets and I associate them with old ladies who live indoors. Also with a particular style of interior decorating that is basically neutral with one or two “exotic” “splashes of colour” provided by orchids, some of which may even be artificial.
And just for comparison here are some actual supermarket orchids which are decidedly brighter but still pinky with a really bluish undertone.
This just shows that colours and how we feel about them is very much a subjective matter. And they go in and out of fashion. When I was growing up everyone was painting their homes cream and brown. Then there was a fashion for grey and yellow. Then there was terracotta and blue. Then everyone went for beiges. Now I understand grey is the best seller (after white).
Of course colours are in fashion, or not, and I was interested in my reaction to Radiant Orchid. I didn’t even bother to work out if it would be a colour that would suit me. I just didn’t fancy it.
Then I found myself planning on buying a new Swatch in the airport on the way to Egypt. This was to replace my existing white Swatch that had got rather grimy and hardened. And I looked at the pink, a sugary pink, and thought about it, then spied this purply-pink one. I have lots of pink in my wardrobe, but nothing whatsoever in this shade of purply pink. It was an available choice because it was a fashion fad. Somehow, inexplicably, it suddenly seemed “fresh” and new, and this was the watch I bought.
I have worn it every day and began to like the colour.
Then, on holiday, I went into an Ecco shoe shop. I don’t know if you like this Danish brand, but I find their shoes and boots particualarly comfortable. I found a nice pair of sandals in white, but they were full price. In the sale, at around £38, the same pair was available in radiant orchid. I already knew my watch looked good with much of my existing wardrobe – with jeans, with grey, navy or white. I was also really attracted to the little silver square buckles. I don’t feel I have purple feet but you can easily see in this photograph that this particular shade harmonises with my skin and the slightly blue look of my nails!
Because I now have toning shoes and watch I felt the need for a top. I was therefore pleased to find this sleeveless T for £1.49 in Marks and Spencer. And here I am at the Lords, having watched the first day of the Ashes.
I am not sure why I changed my mind about this colour. It now feels completely mine. I will mix and match these three items to create outfits that I can love. It seems to go with everything I already have but feels exciting as it is new to me. I asked Esme what she thought and she said it was a “little girl colour”, whereas I had seen it as old ladyish.
Not long ago I had a similar experience with lemon. I thought it a fuddy-duddy old lady colour, and perhaps “lavender” has similar connotations. But now I am becoming an old lady I realise I was blind to their charms.
Menswear Friday – Jeans – what not to wear
I have been meaning to write about Jeans for ages. They are such a great staple and nearly everyone wears them. But it is a difficult subject and, as I soon realised, quite a specialist subject. Rather than suggesting what brands and shapes look good on the three main male shapes (tapered, straight, or shaped) I have decided to produce another of my “What Not to Wear” blogs.
People seem to enjoy these “forthright” posts the most. My general what not to wear at work for men and the what not to wear at interviews are two of my most popular posts.
So here is the low down on denim.
There are ten denim styles to be avoided:
1. Shabby jeans with worn hems
These jeans are sold like this! You can get the same effect quite quickly. If you wear jeans that are too long for a few weeks you will walk on the hems and rub them away. This shabby look results. However it is not too hard to buy jeans in the right length for you. Men’s jeans often come in three lengths so get measured and choose the right size. However shorter, heavier men and those who are half sizes eg 32″ leg, or very tall will have to buy from specialist suppliers or pay someone competent to take them up. There is a technique for taking them up invisibly on youtube, but so long as you use the right colour of top stitching thread this job can be done at home.
2. Anything from Marks&Spencer. Especially with an Active Waist
Chain store jeans are pretty sad, not because I am a snob, but because the styling is middle-aged, Here tall, slim, handsome American President Obama looks short and stocky in a nasty pair of “Dad jeans”, teamed with bulky white trainers. Jeans should normally be in darker shades of blue and close-fitting. And elastic anywhere is a complete no-no. That is what an “Active Waistbandband” means. Face facts.
3 Tight skinny jeans (unless you are very slim)
Although “jeggings” for women (an unfortunate cross between leggings and jeans) are quite popular with women, they haven’t really caught on for men. Thankfully. Because it is not a good look. We do not want or need to see every detail of the male anatomy, and the tightness on the thighs, calves and bottom is even worse. The tucked in polo shirt and riding boots emphasise the general tightness of the look on the fellow with the coffee. So with jeans – while we definitely don’t want too baggy, too tight is even worse. And although Russell Brand is quite thin, his girls’ skinny jeans are too tight and make his legs (which are shorter than his body) look even shorter.
4 Anything with rhinestones on or any obviously “fashionable” jeans. Classic looks are best
Obviously embellishment like this says something. “I am a rebel” “I am a shiny bird of prey (on its side).” Or”I like to wear a cross because I err, have faith, er, like”. Or “adolescent”. Same as so low slung that your underpants show. Naff.
5 Bleached jeans
Old, well loved and worn traditional jeans lose some of their colour because the blue indigo dye is not completely fast. With washing and wear they fade over time. The pockets, knees, hems and other well worn areas lighten charmingly so that the jeans began to take on the shape of the wearer, like a pair of old boots. To get the authentic “faded” look you have to be someone who wears the denim almost constantly for at least six months, with minimal washing. This requires a cool life style and an outdoor, high-testosterone type job.
In order to get the look without the commitment a number of youths started a trend for putting their new denims in the bath with a cupful of household bleach. This would often have a disastrous outcome. However over time the bleached look caught on. But it is truly horrible and to be avoided at all costs.
6. Light blue jeans
Related to bleached denim are light blue denim jeans. Whatever you put them with – belts, dark shoes, tennis shoes, jackets, linen shirts – they always look horrible. I cannot find a flattering picture on the internet. Jeremy Clarkson was sacked for hitting someone at the BBC. But I would say his jeans were crime enough.
7. Jeans that come up too high
These two men are professional models. They are required to wear these trousers to earn a living. They work out and have nice flat tummies. Even they look horrible with their jeans too high. The waist band needs to finish two or three inches below the belly button. OK?
8. Bad jeans with terrible footwear
Unless your legs are very long wear toning shoes eg dark jeans, dark shoes. If you do have long legs then a contrasting shoe can look nice eg mid blue denim with a coloured trainer, Converse or tan leather. Here are some nasty looks.
9. Middle aged men, in a group, all in jeans
If you are a middle aged man with a big paunch who can’t do up his shirt; or you routinely wear a floral shirt, long grey hair and nut brown shoes; or if you are short and think that turn ups look good with your sunnies tucked into your T shirt you are hanging out with the wrong men. Don’t go round in a pack as it will only draw attention to your fashion faux pas, and you will look like the presenters of a terrible TV programme for men with petrol on the brain.
10. David Hasslehoff
This man loves modelling all the bad trends.
Michelle Obama’s evening dresses
Recently I looked at the outfits Mrs Obama has been wearing, celebrating her wonderful wardrobe, showcasing the work of some amazing designers and bringing style back to the White House.
I wanted to have a look specifically at her evening gowns. I just love formal evening dress on Michelle, and her husband looks pretty pleased with himself, and very dapper in a great fitting dinner suit.
I really love the full skirts of the red and orange numbers. It is such a flattering shape on Michelle who is both tall and rather full in the hips. Although I do very much like the grey sparkly number, and I think the big silvery necklace really makes the outfit special.
I think Michelle generally suits the brightest and strongest colours best. I also think if you are the first lady and you have an exuberant personality you really should ramp it up when you are greeting the little man from Paris, France. Michelle looks positively regal in this utterly gorgeous Caroline Herrera gown with its massive, over layered skirt in hyacinth blue, falling from a black waist band, and lovely lace blouse. This is just a fantastic look, showing her body off to perfection and she has chosen colours which almost vibrate. The bouffant skirt minimises her rather large shoulders and this neckline is perfect, making her waist appear tiny. Feminine and gorgeous.
Of course she doesn’t always get it right. Here are some looks that are less successful, in my view.
Although the strong green is a great colour on Michelle, somehow the draped section looks weird and a bit droopy. The jewellery choice is startlingly underwhelming, and the look just too understated.
The two corset dresses in black and teal are basically the same design – a rather slim column skirt with a close-fitting top with dropped shoulder detail. In my previous post I mentioned that knee-length fitted dresses were great on Michelle, but when they are floor length I feel they just emphasise how very tall she is. For evening I personally prefer a long, fuller skirt. The corseted body-con dresses feature better jewellery than the thin silver chain.
The First Lady should look showy and important at these state events. While black is a great colour on Michelle, on its own with a severe hair do she is in danger of looking almost like her husband’s twin. The teal is somewhat better but the colour is not really doing anything for her (compare to the orange and red above). And it might just be me, but with all these three gowns her breast bone looks a bit, well, bony. I would advice a bit more uplift (obviously she’s wearing a better bra in the Herrera dress) or a higher neckline.
What do you think?
Draping on the Stand 0.5 – the Circle dress goes on and on…
I covered the pattern last week, and it is big. I used a slightly heavier pattern paper than usual so it is somewhat unweildy.
I bought 5 metres of navy and 2 metres in beige cotton lawn for a total of £14 on Chapel St market for an attempt at a wearable toile. This wasn’t enough so I bought a further 2 metres of beige at Woolcrest, also £2 per metre. If I do this in silk it is going to be expensive. Anyway the two beiges are different, but in a good way I hope.
I don’t want to look too much like the gospel singers on the left. I am more trying for the look on the right – the Claire McCardell Futuristic dress.
I gave it a white yoke so the dress is lighter near the face. You can see at this stage it is only pinned. You can probably see the darker top stitching on the CF of the yoke. I intend to top stitch all the seams to give stability and a slightly sporty finish, as with the McCardell dress. i have created a double layered yoke and interfaced it, and finger pressed it in order to try it on, and to pin the start of the right angled triangle to the yoke. Yes it will help me to sing Swing Low Sweet Chariot, but I will carry on.
Each quarter dress is a right angle triangle, but when making the pattern I cut it into sections. Then when cutting out in cloth I kept the joining seams on the straight grain as much as possible. I enjoyed stitching nice, long straight seams, pressing them open and then just pining them onto Camilla. I liked the way the flares just folded around the curves and I really think it will look OK with a belt. At this stage I have sewed up the two fronts, and pinned them both to the yoke so you can see how the colour blocking is working as a chevron effect. Maybe it is hideous? I don’t know for sure but I think I will like it. It is a fascinating experiment in any event.
I could change the yoke colour as this is a bit odd. Or maybe omit it altogether?
I tested the two fronts stitched together as a yokeless dress. I think with a few modifications it might work well as a halter neck. Certainly experimenting with a circle has shown me that it possible to make a voluminous dress that drapes and flatters, and that fabric choice is everything.
But I think I will just finish it off, try it on, and see if I should make it up in a more luxurious fabric – as Sew2Pro noted a drapey viscose might be nice (I think that is what the McCardell dress is made from). I also really like Cloning Couture Mary’s suggestion of a chiffon overdress, with a full length satin closer cut petticoat. Very soon I am going to have to commit with this one.
I think I will include
- the yoke but possibly reduced at the shoulder
- top stitching on the seams that join the coloured sections to each other
- pockets – pockets are always good (but they will have at be at the side seam which I find a bit too far back, as a rule)
- bias bound armholes (this will be tricky because of the yoke)
- a narrow hem
Back to the sewing machine – these long straight seams are quite fun. I will report on how I get on next week.
Romanian shepherd style
I have often thought that being stylish is not a matter of following what the magazines tell us, but something more instinctive. Ruth of Core Couture has been writing, interesting about this. I wrote about being cool on another occasion and style is a similar issue. Having money can help you express your individuality – if you are Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, or Mrs Simpson. But money, on its own, is not enough.
Style, looking cool, means being comfortable with who you are and being happy with your lot. In my view style means that when you choose how you present yourself to the outside world you are giving an authentic – not head-to-toe-designer – look.
So I present four Romanian shepherds for you to consider.
I have recently been on a walking holiday in Transylvania where people still scythe the hay by hand, and transport it on horses. Without mechanised equipment or cars the style of agriculture remains as was here during the 1920s and 1930s. The sheep, and goats, are grazed outside and moved across the country as the weather changes. This ancient tradition, known as transhumance, is semi-nomadic, and many of these men sleep outside in all weathers, in little huts, so that they can be close to their flocks and deal with threats from wolves, bears and lynx. In the winter the shepherds dress in thick sheepskins to keep out the cold. All year round these coats are also the shepherds’ bedding.
The first shepherd was leading his horse. We found he was deaf and we managed to communicate using signs. He was happy to pose for photographs and seemed a very warm and engaging individual. Despite his poverty he was dressed in an appropriate way. His denim shirt was worn, and like the tank top, probably second-hand. His rubber boots were basic and his trousers torn. With his jacket tied around his waist, a rucksack and a beanie hat he was dressed perfectly for the weather and any eventualities. The muted colours harmonising with the factory-made, but colourful, “fair isle” sweater made me keen to capture him on camera. But it was his open smile and genuine friendship that sung out.
Later on we met another man, wearing an amazing brimless pot hat. This hat is typical of the region and worn by shepherds and gypsies. It is made on a hat block from soft wool and shaped a bit like a cloche. Apparently they are sometimes painted white inside so that the purchaser can be sure that the hat is a new, not second-hand one, turned inside out and re-shaped.
We saw this man two or three times on our travels, one day herding 350 sheep along a steep path. His outfit was the same – a bright blue shirt, contrasting perfectly with a nut-brown woolen jacket. He was happy to be photographed too – proud of his heritage and profession.
The third man was a cheese maker. Standing in front of his small, wooden, forest home, he wears a tank top too. He doesn’t meet our gaze but looks at the floor while he explains how he makes cheese from the milk of sheep and goats, builds a fire and smokes it. His life is orderly. He takes milk from all the shepherds, curdles and drains it, makes cheese, smokes and ages it. Then sells it. His methods are primitive but effective.
Another cheese maker asked us in, and showed me his special belt. I am pretty sure the purse is for the proceeds of the cheese sales, but I am not sure about the rest of the design.
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