I covered the pattern last week, and it is big. I used a slightly heavier pattern paper than usual so it is somewhat unweildy.
I bought 5 metres of navy and 2 metres in beige cotton lawn for a total of £14 on Chapel St market for an attempt at a wearable toile. This wasn’t enough so I bought a further 2 metres of beige at Woolcrest, also £2 per metre. If I do this in silk it is going to be expensive. Anyway the two beiges are different, but in a good way I hope.
I don’t want to look too much like the gospel singers on the left. I am more trying for the look on the right – the Claire McCardell Futuristic dress.
I gave it a white yoke so the dress is lighter near the face. You can see at this stage it is only pinned. You can probably see the darker top stitching on the CF of the yoke. I intend to top stitch all the seams to give stability and a slightly sporty finish, as with the McCardell dress. i have created a double layered yoke and interfaced it, and finger pressed it in order to try it on, and to pin the start of the right angled triangle to the yoke. Yes it will help me to sing Swing Low Sweet Chariot, but I will carry on.
Each quarter dress is a right angle triangle, but when making the pattern I cut it into sections. Then when cutting out in cloth I kept the joining seams on the straight grain as much as possible. I enjoyed stitching nice, long straight seams, pressing them open and then just pining them onto Camilla. I liked the way the flares just folded around the curves and I really think it will look OK with a belt. At this stage I have sewed up the two fronts, and pinned them both to the yoke so you can see how the colour blocking is working as a chevron effect. Maybe it is hideous? I don’t know for sure but I think I will like it. It is a fascinating experiment in any event.
I could change the yoke colour as this is a bit odd. Or maybe omit it altogether?
I tested the two fronts stitched together as a yokeless dress. I think with a few modifications it might work well as a halter neck. Certainly experimenting with a circle has shown me that it possible to make a voluminous dress that drapes and flatters, and that fabric choice is everything.
But I think I will just finish it off, try it on, and see if I should make it up in a more luxurious fabric – as Sew2Pro noted a drapey viscose might be nice (I think that is what the McCardell dress is made from). I also really like Cloning Couture Mary’s suggestion of a chiffon overdress, with a full length satin closer cut petticoat. Very soon I am going to have to commit with this one.
I think I will include
- the yoke but possibly reduced at the shoulder
- top stitching on the seams that join the coloured sections to each other
- pockets – pockets are always good (but they will have at be at the side seam which I find a bit too far back, as a rule)
- bias bound armholes (this will be tricky because of the yoke)
- a narrow hem
Back to the sewing machine – these long straight seams are quite fun. I will report on how I get on next week.