You may remember I drafted a princess line dress, based on my new personal dress block. I used some nice fabric that I had bought, very cheaply, when I put my SWAP fabrics together. I thought it might work well for my Pucci Pant suit, which I made up in pink eventually. So I used it for my toile, hoping (as ever) that my toile might turn out to be wearable.
My dress, as you may recall, is inspired by a Karen Millen summer dress. The princess seams create a fitted bodice and the skirt is effectively a high-waisted pencil skirt, with no darts at the front and two darts at the back. I decided against the back – a cut away racer style with a V back I do eventually want to make this dress in a nice floral print.
I made up the dress, self lining the bodice and leaving a split at the CB hem. I needed to make one important alteration which was to close the bust dart by a further 1.5cm at the armhole. This is not surprising as I had created the original dart at 7cms wide at the shoulder. As I have a bigger than average cup size I needed to take a little fullness out. I have since taken one additional cm out of the dress block. This means I have a nice close fit at the top.
The darting at the back and the lack of a dart at the front worked surprisingly well, and I fiddled around a lot with the side seams to get a “skimming” effect rather than the “Jessica Rabbit” look that Mrs Mole is always asked for, by various brides. I am always scared of leaving too much/not enough ease over the hips and thighs. I just can’t be doing with any tightness here, not just in terms of sitting down and walking (as advised by Mrs Mole). If it is too tight I fear it may emphasise my bumps, but equally if I exaggerate the hips/thigh area I am in danger of looking disproportionate. I am hoping to do some careful fitting with Pia soon, so we will work on my skirt block as well as the one piece dress which is, always, a compromise between no waistline seam and a good fit.
I am wearing an insect brooch that my daughter gave me one Christmas and a Mexican silver necklace from my mother. In terms of styling I find this sort of look a bit too dressy for me – the sort of thing for I might wear for a summer party. But with a dress like this, especially in such a neutral shade, I prefer a denim jacket or perhaps a bright pink cardigan.
I am not entirely happy with this dress, especially when I examine the photographs. It looks a little bit tight on the bust, and there is a bit of fullness in the torso. I think I should have dropped the waistline by about five centimetres. Also the skirt is puckering up a bit against my underwear, probably caused by it not being lined. Also I think the silvery grey is a bit dull and a bit too formal looking. I prefer the denim jacket as it brings in some extra colour as well as dressing it down.
I will line the next version. But on the whole I am beginning to get what I want here, so will preserve. I have already cut out a second version – here it is pinned to Camilla. The fabric, from Fabric Godmother, was suggested to me by Val Barkworth (Valbark on Instagram) and Louise fromno23. Thanks Ladies – I really like this fabric.