I have been describing my progress at my Draping on the Stand class. This is my 14th post – and I am glad to report I have by finally achieved a degree of competence. Now, in my third term, with a few years of flat pattern cutting behind me, I managed to do a drape, at home, without the instructions. The learning and lectures, practise and pinning finally went into my brain, and stayed.
I covered my plan for draping a flared top. Here are some inspiration pictures.
I didn’t drape the upper part because neither the stand at college or at home has my exact combination of features. Instead I used my princess block to create a muslin for the bodice, and then draped the peplum separately. I created two different looks. The first one is just a basic straightforward peplum as seen below (left front). As you can see draping allows us to get the flare exactly where we want it rather than cutting out (what is effectively) a circle skirt. I didn’t want the flare at the CF as in the red jacket above, and I didn’t want so much at the back; I wanted most of the flare at the side. It was an easy and quick drape to do.
To create flares you pin with straight grain at the CF, leaving most of the fabric above the waist as this will create the fullness. As you get to a place you want a flare you stick in a pin, cut down to the waist line (black tape can be seen below), allow the fabric in your hand to take the shape of flare, then pin once it is the amount required, smoothing the next bit of cloth along the waist line until you get to the next flare. My simple peplum had about six flares before I got to the CB.
For my toile I used the nice charcoal wool jersey given to me at Christmas by dear Meg of Pigeon Wishes. It was a good choice. I made a simple fitted bodice with princess seams – impossible to see in the dark grey. The style line goes into the sleeve at front and back. I cut quite a deep neck as I thought this might be a bit more interesting than the round necks of the RTW jackets above. For the next version I may take a little bit of fullness from the centre back panel, but just a little. Otherwise the fit is pretty good.
I chose the more conservative peplum. I used my sleeve block (with a dear little elbow dart. I had a blue separating zip in my cupboard so I used that. The CF panels have grown on facings which I joined to a back facing. The peplum itself was cut double to give a little weight and a clean finish.
It was a nice straight forward project. It is comfortable, warm and fits. I would like to make this up again in suede as I have seen such sumptuous colours and textures. Maybe when I have finished the SWAP in May.
The next two draping projects are the twisted top, and the cowl top. In the meantime I am doing a weekend course in bias draping. That is going to be quite a challenge.