13 Feb 2016

Sewing with a Plan 2016 0.17 – McCalls 3938

by | posted in: Designing, SWAP | 18
Courreges McCalls 7938
McCalls 7938

My big breakthrough this week, in terms of Sewing with a Plan was choosing this pattern.  It is based on a Courreges design and is just what I wanted. Utterly 1960s down to the go-go boots and allows me to make a skirt, top, jacket and coat combo into my Sewing with a Plan collection. I am planning to do a skirt, top and coat, but using different fabrics and textures for each item.

The coat

You can just see the Italian boucle mauve wool, close up, nestling under the pattern; the texture is lovely. I cut out the coat but have yet to decide on the trimming, and what to do about the pockets, which are just flaps! I ask you – flaps! Sure they give a nice bit of waist emphasis on a basically straight unfitted coat. But a coat needs pockets (don’t you agree?). So I will let this simmer for a week or two. And choosing trimming seems to be a bit of a full time job. Too many choices. But I am keen on silver rather than the more obvious navy or charcoal – this is a coat for summer. Recently thinking about US fashions (compared to the UK) I realised that a summer coat is such an English thing. We rarely have weather that allows a simple summer dress and sunnies. It can always turn chilly. A nice warm, but light, coat can be very useful – for traveling in, or to put on when it clouds over. In summer a navy, grey or black coat can be a bit depressing. A sweat-pea coat is what I need instead!

I will also need to think about the lining and buttons.

The skirt

I toiled the skirt. Maybe there is no need with such a simple skirt – back, front, side zip. But because this is such a classic 1960s skirt I wanted to test it exactly as it is. If it works for me it will become a TNT – i wear a 1960s skirt most days. Here it is without a waist band. I think this is the right length for me  (actually 5″ shorter than the pattern!) I am happy with it – a slight A line that is a flattering outline on anyone with a shaped figure (defined waist and larger hips). Since I cut out the coat there is not enough mauve wool left to make a little skirt, but I have an idea.

The blouse

The blouse is a very simple 1960s shell, with a back zip. These sort of tops just don’t feature these days. Under a suit most women would choose a jersey top or a more formal shirt/blouse under a suit. But I love the nice simple neckline and the chance to use a luxurious fabric. So I am planning using a nice mauve silk.

I have given myself four weeks to make this outfit. I will give you an update next week.

18 Responses

  2. thedementedfairy
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    I love seeing your work, you choose colours and fabrics so well. I think I particularly enjoy it because they’re completely outside anything that would work for me, so I’m not distracted by thinking things like ‘hmmm, lovely, but I’m not tall enough/thin enough/shapely enough for it’ etc etc. I just love seeing you rock all these cute 60s styles and pretty pastels!

  4. Jay
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    Nice fit on the skirt! I agree that it’s pointless having the pocket flaps without the pockets – perhaps it was so it would be a simpler make. The mauve wool is beautiful.

  5. mrsmole
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    Lovely sweet pea purple fabric and nothing beats a classic skirt! The only thing with real pockets in a soft weave if the chance of them “relaxing” later and drooping so some extra thought and support is called for. Things are really taking shape now, Kate!

  6. ceci
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    Oh, summer coats…..! Living in the US upper south, it was always so strange/amusing to hear a friend from Scotland talk about summer coats – a totally foreign concept here where an unlined linen jacket was MAYBE bearable for sun protection only. I can see that they give scope for pretty pale colors instead of our ubiquitous black winter coats. This will be a lovely addition to your SWAP.

    ceci

  9. Mary Funt
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    Wonderful ideas. Like Mrs. Mole points out pockets need support. Convert the flaps to real jetted pockets with a flap and underline/interface the front pattern section to provide support. Silver trim sounds great. Cut narrow strips of silver leather???

  10. Stephanie
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    Love the colour for the coat, K. I had a vintage coat in a somewhat similar style to the ones you’ve shown, but mine was in a pumpkin colour with cream trim. I no longer have it, unfortunately. Incidentally, not sure if you are still planning your trip to Belgium for your birthday. Unfortunately, with oil prices evolving as they are and a variety of other factors, I think it unlikely that I will be able to take that week off. I had held out hope. I hope you have a great time!

    • Stephanie
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      Actually, I forgot to mention that mine also did not have pockets, but had rather elaborate pocket flaps/faux openings. I think that more than flaps it was a piece that encircled where the pocket opening would have been. It was authentic to the period in the sense that it was a tailored coat from that period. I’ll see if I can find a photo.

      • Stephanie
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        Thanks for understanding, K. If I can come in the end I may yet show up! I’m still waiting on a decision that will determine the workload in that period for sure, which could take a while. I’ve been told that I’ll be very busy until the end of May though.

        I found a picture of me in the coat. It looks to me from the width of the lapel (which I hadn’t remembered) as though it is from 1969 or maybe early 1970s but no later. I bought it at a fripperie in Montreal when I was a student. I found one picture on Pinterest of a Courreges coat from 1969 that has a similar collar. In any case, mine was likely a riff on the style and the faux pockets are interesting – circles with cream-coloured patches.

  11. Annieloveslinen
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    You’re on point and definitely choosing shapes and styles than enhance your figure, the skirt is perfect. Disappointing about the pockets but I suppose you could borrow some from another pattern.

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