Draping on the stand 0.11 – Folded on the cross skirt

(Sorry if you are confused by my posting this morning. I am sleep-deprived after a long night of babysitting. The children were very good and slept until 4am. The problem was my daughter’s hyperactive, nocturnal cat. It cried all night and then, when let into the bedroom at about 1am,  wanted to play “catch the mouse” with my hand and arm. Which involved “play biting”. Most unwelcome. So now I am feeling completely knackered. Hence I put the wrong post up earlier.)

Let’s have another look at my skirt inspiration. This is a Westwood RTW skirt with a huge chunk of fabric picked up and caught into the side seam, so that the hem is on the bias and the stripes on the skirt are intriguing. I really fell for this look but wanted to put my own twist on it.

Westwood Anglomania striped draped skirt
Westwood Anglomania striped draped skirt

First I started with some small bits of calico that I drew parallel lines on with a pencil (roughly). Then I folded and cut to see what would happen. I tried with different proportions.

Vivienne Westwood skirt copy
Experimenting with folding

Although my fold is different to Westwood in that I have a fair amount of bulk at the hem I rather liked this idea. However there are three layers at the base which is perhaps a bit thick. Then, using the stand, I draped a skirt with this sort of fold. As I took the fabric up to consider how to achieve a nice waist line finish I took the fabric up to the bust, thinking this might work well as a shift dress. I am thinking of creating a shift dress, with a separate bodice taking up the bust dart. It might be quite fun. What do you think?

I then did a few more experiments with the fold, this time using a softer cotton left over. The pleat here is smaller and more acute, still bringing the stipes together in an interesting way. This is something closer to the Westwood pleat. Can see the relatively small”dart” formed in this way? On the right I have opened up the fabric (once the side seams and hem is cut off) to show the shape of the pattern piece.

I bought some nice striped wool at £8 a metre at Oakmount. I think it may have once been used for blazers.


I will make this up and show you my results soon.

15 Responses

  1. sew2pro

    Oh poor you, with the hellcat. How does your daughter cope? My cat sleeps like a baby (between my feet) though he does wake around about 3am and clatters my pens on the floor/bites my glasses till I clap my hands violently and he scuttles off downstairs for a while, before resettling for another sleep shift.

    I prefer the Westwood style which requires lots and lots of fabric and am worried that keeping it low-key might look as if the pleating is accidental. Also, do make the hem narrower if it’s possible as the whole thing might look bottom- heavy (of maybe shorten it). But isn’t it great that she uses plaid and stripes as it gives us a clue as to what is happening with the fabric!?

    • fabrickated

      The hell cat (not really her fault she is just a baby, and she has to spend most days in doors on her own, so night is play time….)has been rehomed today. My daughter doesn’t “cope” but acts decisively. Also she doesn’t have a downstairs so has been trying to keep the cat in the sitting room at night. Your feedback on Westwood is valuable and something I will need to think about for the next iteration. Thanks Sew2Pro!

  2. Chris

    I love that Westwood uses stripes and checks – it’s much clearer to see how garments come together. The Westwood version seems to be a bias piece where the fabric has been folded down at the side – rather than picked up from the hem. I wonder if your fold will billow out when walking? Looking forward to the results as always. My sewing time is restricted lately so virtual sewing is all I have time for!

  3. Stephanie

    This is fascinating for the geometrically-challenged (such as me). Thanks for sharing. The effect with the stripes is quite magical. I am also curious to see how your fold will behave when you walk, if it’s in range of the knees.

  4. Anne

    I was looking at one of the other Anglomania skirts – the trail tartan mini. It’s a fascinating concept. Looking forward to seeing what you produce.

  5. AnnieB

    Maybe it will be only me but I am genuinely more excited when I visualise you in these things than the other options (perhaps you will tease us with the third set of ideas next?) I note sewing these in your calm and neutral home (aesthetically at least) may be an issue. My home is the reverse of that so maybe that’s the appeal of the grey and beige to me! But I do also see these items as luxuriously Vogue-styled….heavenly.

  6. Kim Hood

    Wherever the tuck is formed I feel it needs to be substantial to look good. Little features tend to look a bit apologetic.
    Looking forward to seeing your results.

  7. Mary Funt

    I’m with Kim Hood. The pleats/tucks need to be substantial to look intentional. Otherwise they look like an “accident.” I like the placement of the original more than having multiple layers at the hem, but you are the designer. Enjoy your experimentation with skirt draping. I sure you are gaining valuable experience.

  8. Seamsoddlouise

    The original looks like it has pleats perpendicular as well as at an angle. Really enjoying your experiments. Amazing these patterns require such weirdly shaped pattern pieces to get the effects.

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