My draping on the stand adventure continued with the requirement to create a pegged skirt.
This design was very popular in the 1950s, and then in the 1980s. Here are a few pictures.
It is a particular look. The straight grain is pulled upwards to create width at the waist and a narrowing at the hem. Then the excess fabric at the waist is draped or folded to give fullness at the hip. It can be relatively subtle, just looking like a pleated straight skirt, or fairly exaggerated and design-y.
In style terms this skirt is best for women with a straight body shape and slim legs. The shape of the skirt – with width at the hips and a narrow hem is not the most flattering for women with an hourglass shape (ie me). However I thought I would give it a go and let you be the judge of whether or not this style can be worn by curved figures.
I decided to drape this skirt in the fashion fabric, rather than calico. I am not sure I would do that again for such a complicated design. I really struggled to get this to work and would have liked to use the model in calico-transfer to paper-true the pattern-choose suitable fabric-cut out and make up. I thought doing this skirt in fabric would be a bit more challenging and it was.
I followed the instructions.
- Ensure fabric is prepared in terms of straight edges and squared grain
- mark the CB waist (just the first few inches) and the hip (all the way around) with basting threads so you can see what is happening.
- start draping at the CB, and then lift up the fabric at a sharp angle so that the CF is now on the bias
- put a tape around the waist
- for extra fullness pull the fabric down beneath the tape
- when you are pleased with the design, mark the waist, gathers/pleats etc.
- remove from the stand and make up the skirt
Here are a couple of photographs from the lecture. I am sorry the second one is rather dark.
I had brought in about 1.4 metres of a fairly firm wool with some polyester, which contains elastane. I figured if the skirt was very slim around the leg area I could do with a little stride room. Lynda suggested that I start my draping at the CF so I trace tacked the CF, hip and front waist on the fabric with bright yellow thread before I started.
I then spent a couple of hours, pulling, folding, and working. My first efforts had the CB on an angle but not extreme enough to create the kind of fullness I was seeking. It just looked like a normal pleated skirt. So Lynda helped me redrape the back so that the CB was more or less on the true bias. This gave my skirt the more exaggerated, structural look I was seeking. And here is my skirt (photographed (slightly crumpled) at home the next morning).
I found this a difficult project to get my head around, and I am glad I persevered. I spent another evening “faffing” around with this skirt, and I will report on progress very soon. I must rush as I am hoping to wear this skirt on Monday.