Lining a jacket with a hand-painted lining (Vogue 7133)

posted in: WIP (work in progress) | 13

I have covered this topic before, but I just lined my 1967 Vogue jacket using hand painted silk and I love it.

  1. First cut out your lining pieces and do the tailors’ tacks in a colour you won’t be using (navy blue in this case). I used a cheap habotai silk (£5 a metre from Simply Fabrics). I have used the navy from there before and found it rather shoddy, but this white silk was of better quality. I used less than 1m for this project.
  2. I generally mark my linings with a soluble felt tip, but of course the watered down silk paints dissolve it. I find the markings very important with silk painting as they help as guidelines and ensure you don’t put a crucial part of the design in an area where there will be a dart, such as here. I made a light yellow by mixing two yellows and diluting. I then created a cross hatch design, giving me little windows in which I could create my colour scheme. As this lining is going into a yellow jacket I chose yellow as my background colour. Where it attaches to the jacket it is yellow. Therefore I started by painting all the outer edges of each lining piece (there were seven) in yellow. The seams are made in yellow fabric meaning a neat finish and you don’t need to change the yellow thread in the machine.  The next stage of my design was to introduce light pink, again made simply by diluting my rose-pink.
    Painted silk lining for dressmaking
    Outlining the design in yellow
  3. Then I built up the pink by adding more pigment so that I had four different shades of pink including straight-from-the-jar strong rose pink. I then mixed a little blue into the pink to produce a greyish mauve just to “dirty” the colour scheme a little bit. I don’t like it to be too “pure” – but I kept this very watery as I was keen on a light, summery, pastel look, inspired by an English summer garden. I let the paint dry off between colours. This doesn’t take long in a warm house, in summer. Maybe 20 minutes. Finally I added a couple of shades of blue.


  4. The painted pieces are then fixed with a hot iron.
  5. Make up the lining as instructed in your pattern, creating darts, and joining the sections as outlined.
    Painted silk lining for jacket
    Painted silk lining
  6. Press open the seams, remove those ugly blue tacks that are not needed for matching the lining to the jacket, and place it, wrong sides together on your stand if you have one. I do find this a good way to attach a lining, ensuring there is no twisting of the lining and making sure that every seam and mark joins up. It has a very slightly tight feel at this point. Don’t worry because this relaxes once it is turned the right way. The pleat in the back provides a little ease in wear.
    Attaching a lining to a jacket
    Matching the lining to the jacket
  7. Apply bias strips of interfacing to the hems of jacket and sleeves to give stability and a soft edge.
  8. Hand sew the lining into the jacket, by attaching it to the seams, and then sewing it, by hand, to the facings and hems.
  9. Try it on. Smile. Your jacket has a lovely secret!
  10. Lemon jacket with painted silk lining
    Lined jacket


13 Responses

  1. Stephanie

    Beautiful, K. Possibly my favourite lining that you have done to date! Will we get a photo of you in the jacket?

  2. Hila

    So delicate and beautiful! So inspired I went to find the fabric shop online only to discover theu dont have an online store?. Now looking at silk habotai on Ebay. I would like to try painting – what paints do you use? Thanks.

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