I mentioned that I have been learning to drape, or model, on the stand. Now I am making a bit of progress I thought I would give an update. I mentioned I was keen to see if I could do a version of the Claire McCardell Futuristic dress which also complied with my brief of creating a dress with a yoke and flares. Let’s see.
First I did a little drawing of a full length dress with a V neck front and back (so it could be put on over the head) and then used the thin cotton tape to mark out the design lines on the stand. I created a V neck, and then echoed the angle with a line across the bust point more or less down to the waist at the CF. Then, supported by my tutor Lynda Kinne, I decided to have the straight grain go along this over-bust seam line. As I will be attaching my flared skirt from this seam it made sense to have the straight grain here rather than at the CF. Consequently I will have a bias seam at CF, but I think it will mould nicely once it is sewn up. The back followed a similar path, with another deep V and the straight grain along the seam under the shoulder-blade.
It’s an experiment, so only time will tell if this works well.
The next step was to drape the rest of the dress, with flares. These are created by identifying where the flare will come from on the seam line, then manipulating the fabric to create the flare. I put pins every 2″ along the over bust seam line to create plenty of flare in the dress. To get the effect I wanted I guessed that I might use all of my 1.5m. Lynda had demonstrated how to drape flares from the CF to the side seam, but I started draping at the side seam because as the flares are put in the grain drops down. As my seam was at a descending angle I thought this would work better.
It worked pretty well. What do you think happened when I got to the CF? Can you work out what happened in terms of the grain and the shape of the cloth? I could leave you hanging like my fabric, or I could tell you the answer. I should just mention that I draped the skirt of the dress, then took it off and created the seam allowances etc, and put it back on. It is not very carefully draped but you will get the general idea, I hope. I have to tell you I was so excited by this project that I couldn’t sleep for around two hours last night, just thinking about it.
If you can work it out, please do leave a comment below. If you want a clue think about how a circle skirt works. Or have a look at this post. I will explain what I did in my next post, and show you the fabric flat. It was a fun experiment and I will try to make this dress too.
What type of fabric would you recommend?