Turns out this “simple” yellow jacket is quite a time consuming job.
I am using a 1967 Vogue pattern. It’s not a “designer” pattern, but clearly around that time many designers were using the kimono sleeve. And the dress and jacket look (dress suit) was very popular in the mid to late 1960s. The third (right) Pucci pattern below was recently made up by Karen, if you are interested. I would say my pattern is derivative, but captures all the elements of the designer versions of the style, and I have been so looking forward to making it up.
I really like the grown on kimono sleeve. I have had a go at designing my own jacket with a kimono sleeve. I have also made a 60s dress with a similar sleeve. It seems a little counter intuitive to make a sleeve that joins to the bodice, and the sleeve is at an angle that the arm is not held at – neither straight out like a true kimono sleeve, nor held to the side of the body which would restrict movement. The seaming is from the shoulder seam down the sides of the sleeve.
I am using a remnant and it is a lovely, soft, very light lemon wool with cashmere. It is a bit blankety, but so is a cardigan. I think I will enjoy wearing just as happily over a smart dress as over a pair of jeans. It has been easy to sew once I lengthened the stitch length.
I underlined using silk organza and interlined with cotton organdie.
The yoke and sleeves are made up, then the body of the jacket, and then it is sewn together from CF to CF in one long seam, capturing the four right angled pivots that allow the underarm to be created in 3D.
The top stitching is of course done by hand. I didn’t find the pocket instructions very clear. Once the welt is trimmed, turned through and pressed I was required to slipstitch the opening together, then top stitch on three sides. Not clear if it was the folded or slip stitched edge. I assumed the folded edge, which meant the stitched edge was to the top. My instinct told me the other way (as the hand slips into this top edge), but the diagram seemed to imply the other way.
Then I was told to put the top stitching in 5/8th inch from the outer edge and then a second line of top stitching next to it – inside or outside was not specified so I guessed outside so that the first was at 5/8th and the second at about 1/2′. Once the jacket is lined I will have to top stitch it along all the outer edges.
I did the facings, stitched the neckline and tried on the jacket with shoulder pads, as proposed. But I took them straight out again. That was mainly because Nick said I looked like Lieutenant Uhuru.
The jacket is now ready for lining. I will be using silk, which I will cut out and then decide if I need to add some colour.
Looks great so far. I can’t see it as Uhuru-like but maybe smaller shoulder pads? I haven’t used them yet but am told they transform the look of a jacket.
I would take ‘looking like Uhuru’ as being a major compliment! Lovely work as ever, and I’m intrigued by the hand top-stitching…looking forward to that
Karen of Fifty Dresses
I am a huge fan of hand top-stitching, especially on jackets and coats. This jacket of yours is perfect for it. I am also a fan of kimono sleeves, but not of shoulder pads! Looking forward to seeing the finished jacket.
I am now approaching the top stitching with some trepidation, so that is very reassuring Karen. The worst thing is to get a garment finished and then to add a detail that ruins it. Here’s hoping for the best.
Looks lovely. I agree with you that the folded edge of the pocket welt should be at the top. I do what looks better despite what pattern instructions say. Your hand top stitching looks wonderful.
I thought so, Mary, thank you. I will pull it off and replace it.