Sewing with a Plan has kicked off. Ladies all over the world have started their four month stint to make 11 co-ordinating outfits (no men yet, although menswear is being made). I have not actually started as I am still testing my patterns. I am keen on working through the trousers in the hope of getting to a definitive TNT pattern that I can use again and again. So bear with me please, as I continue to test and toile. I may need a couple more weeks before I start sewing “for real”.
Finalising the tailored trousers
Alterations to the pattern
I previously toiled the Burda 107D tailored trouser pattern (see above, in dark green). The style was not entirely satisfactory so I resolved to have another go, and made the following changes. I
- lowered the waist band seam by an inch to give them a slightly low-slung, hipster look
- extended the back dart by half an inch
- removed the turn ups
- tapered the leg by two inches at the hem, and three inches at the knee, to give a more contemporary shape
- took the pattern in by a further inch at the CB waist, tapering down the CB seam
- discarded the waistband instructions
I still have a few items to decide
- exact length
- exact position of waist band (may raise again slightly)
- the type of closure
- the length of the overlap on the waist band
- the exact fullness of the width in the upper thigh area
It’s interesting how many variations there are with a simple pair of pants!
I adopted the approach suggested by Mary Funt of Cloning Couture for the waist band, cutting two pieces of 3 and 1/2″ by 20 inches pieces of bias strip. I joined them and stitched this to the waist seam. I then used curved Petersham for the waistband. I am very pleased with this finish and I am grateful to Mary for the suggestion.
I did not make these up very carefully so they are imperfect in a number of respects. But I like the shape and the pattern is now adequate to the task. I am ready to make these trousers up as part of my suit.
Tomorrow I will move on to one more trouser pattern that I have in mind. Stay posted if you are interested in designing, fitting and making ladies’ trousers – something of a holy grail.