OK, Planning complete. Well, as complete as it is going to be. The Christmas festivities are over and I am ready to make a start.
I had decided to start with Garment 4 – the grey, tailored jacket. This is the most challenging garment, and it is the one I toiled just before Christmas, so the pitfalls and issues are fresh in my mind. But so too is the deep sense of disappointment which I experienced when I finished it. Unfortunately this feeling didn’t crystallise until the jacket was almost finished. I ploughed on despite some misgivings and doubts. But it never really came together.
I felt like I was fighting with a cold, flabby, tacky, snaggy, nylon sheep.
My family made me doubt my decision on this style. I began to wonder if I would actually enjoy wearing it. When I put it on, it wasn’t really me. I asked for honest feedback on the blog and I got it – thank you. As Jenny said – it looked “old-fashioned rather than vintage”. Next I considered an alternative, Vogue 8333 – a Claire Shaeffer’s jacket that has a similar silhouette but with a deeper V neck and more streamlined (“novelty”) pockets. I am not sure this is what I want either – it is essentially the same jacket and needs fitting carefully. It demands yet another toile, and I am tired of toiling to be honest.
So here is what I am going to do. I have been reading and writing about Kimonos and Japanese styling. I have made a toile for the Yamamoto jacket. So, for my grey SWAP suit, I am going to make a Kimono jacket – or rather my own interpretation of a Kimono jacket. I considered the Burda jacket, but this is too crude for me. I want a more elegant look, and I definitely want a collar. But I like the design of the sleeves.
Here is the summary of my thinking
- Kimono sleeve (as in dressmaker’s grown-on sleeve, possibly with gusset, rather than true Japanese Kimono style)
- Not too long (high hip)
- wrap round
- no fastenings
- wide double wrap belt
- important military style collar with stand and fall
- matched with a slim skirt or possibly an A line.
Something like this.
I have signed up for Advanced Pattern Cutting classes at Morley next term, so I can get some help with the pattern, but I am pretty sure I already know how to do this. By using my own block as a starting point I am pretty sure I can get a good fit. The main issue will be the collar, and I am not sure about the gusset. I will make a toile in this fabric.
In the meantime I have started to make up Garment 6 – the blouse, Burda 04/2011 105 . Having just downloaded and stuck the pieces together I realise that it calls for a silk satin with “widthways stretch” – hmm, that doesn’t sound anything like the white cotton lawn I had planned, does it? However I have a piece of stretchy silk in my cupboard which I will be ideal for this pattern. Because of the stretch I have little doubt it will fit well. I have added an inch to the length. I think this will become a SWAP garment – the colour is lovely and it would go with the sets I have planned.