I wanted to have a go at making a collarless, open fronted jacket, popularised by Coco Chanel, ubiquitous on any star, and widely seen at golf clubs and other functions for dressy matrons.
Before tackling the more advanced three-piece sleeve “French” or Chanel-style jacket Vogue 8804, I decided I would try to make a jacket using the simplified Vogue 7975. I hadn’t done any tailoring for about 25 years and was fairly intimidated by the amount of time, and cost of materials, that was apparently required to make the “couture” version.
V 7975 is a “Vogue basic design” – not sure what that means other than it can be customised.
It features bracelet or full length sleeves; buttons or open front; longer or shorter length; patch or fake welt pockets; and can be finished with or without “purchased” trim. Although the models on the pattern envelope look somewhat dowdy (especially E and D – the buttoned up pair) I thought the younger set (A,B and C) looked quite shapely. In order to test the pattern I bought an inexpensive tweedy cotton from Simply Fabrics and made up jacket B fairly quickly in my size ie b34, size 12.
The main problem with this pattern, and V 8804 if you progress to that, is the huge amount of ease allowed for. I think this is what stops a lot of sewists persevering. Their toile looks like something a chef would wear. Coco Chanel’s original idea of a “cardigan-jacket” was that it would be comfortable as well as smart. She wore her jacket in many versions, and looking at photographs, it is clear that she was someone who was very stylish, with an absolutely obsessional attitude to impeccable fit. Look at how nicely set in her sleeve is.
The Vogue patterns look a bit like they are made of cardboard – cardboard boxy. This jacket is supposed to be flexible, lithe, supple. That is why is is made without interfacing, with applied pockets. In my opinion this pattern is simply not flattering and needs considerable shaping and fitting before it does justice to the woman inside.
Once I had a clear idea about how the pattern would make up I reshaped it, going down to the size 6 (purportedly for a 31 inch bust) across the upper chest and waist line (for a 23″ waist, supposedly), cutting out s8 sleeves, while retaining the s12 cutting lines at the hips, and between 10 and 8 elsewhere. I also lengthened the jacket by 3 inches at the waist line, and did not take up the hem by the same amount. This means it is longer than the B on the packet.
I bought a nice Linton tweed in light navy, with a fairly open basket weave and a silver thread (bottom, centre).
For once I actually had enough fabric to make both a jacket and skirt. I made a really nice 60’s skirt from Vogue 6600. Both jacket and skirt are lined with an emerald habotai silk.