15 Feb 2016

Draping on the Stand 0.14 – the peplum jacket

by | posted in: Designing, Finished projects | 12

I have been describing my progress at my Draping on the Stand class. This is my 14th post – and I am glad to report I have by finally achieved a degree of competence. Now, in my third term, with a few years of flat pattern cutting behind me, I managed to do a drape, at home, without the instructions. The learning and lectures, practise and pinning finally went into my brain, and stayed.

I covered my plan for draping a flared top. Here are some inspiration pictures.

I didn’t drape the upper part because neither the stand at college or at home has my exact combination of features. Instead I used my princess block to create a muslin for the bodice, and then draped the peplum separately. I created two different looks. The first one is just a basic straightforward peplum as seen below (left front). As you can see draping allows us to get the flare exactly where we want it rather than cutting out (what is effectively) a circle skirt. I didn’t want the flare at the CF as in the red jacket above, and I didn’t want so much at the back; I wanted most of the flare at the side. It was an easy and quick drape to do.

To create flares you pin with straight grain at the CF, leaving most of the fabric above the waist as this will create the fullness. As you get to a place you want a flare you stick in a pin, cut down to the waist line (black tape can be seen below), allow the fabric in your hand to take the shape of flare, then pin once it is the amount required, smoothing the next bit of cloth along the waist line until you get to the next flare. My simple peplum had about six flares before I got to the CB.

For my toile I used the nice charcoal wool jersey given to me at Christmas by dear Meg of Pigeon Wishes. It was a good choice. I made a simple fitted bodice with princess seams – impossible to see in the dark grey. The style line goes into the sleeve at front and back. I cut quite a deep neck as I thought this might be a bit more interesting than the round necks of the RTW jackets above. For the next version I may take a little bit of fullness from the centre back panel, but just a little. Otherwise the fit is pretty good.

I chose the more conservative peplum. I used my sleeve block (with a dear little elbow dart. I had a blue separating zip in my cupboard so I used that. The CF panels have grown on facings which I joined to a back facing. The peplum itself was cut double to give a little weight and a clean finish.

It was a nice straight forward project. It is comfortable, warm and fits. I would like to make this up again in suede as I have seen such sumptuous colours and textures. Maybe when I have finished the SWAP in May. IMG_1014 1

The next two draping projects are the twisted top, and the cowl top. In the meantime I am doing a weekend course in bias draping. That is going to be quite a challenge.

12 Responses

    • fabrickated
      |

      Well I find that the draping exercises a different part of my brain. I am free wheeling, experimenting and not really caring too much about the outcome. The draping class garments are just test drives or prototypes to test what I have learnt and to see what happens. The peplum jacket is an item I would have bought in a shop – a simple, grey, jersey item. It is quickly constructed without being finished carefully inside. The zip is blue and not really long enough. I am not entirely happy with the fit at the CF and I am not certain I have got the neckline right. But overall it has potential.

      The SWAP on the other hand is very carefully considered, mainly using fairly tricky vintage patterns where I am more constrained and I am trying for a better quality of work in constructing the garments. The various items will be keepers in wardrobe terms.

      In terms of time management Felicia – I am busy like every other woman I know. But apart from work and family making clothes is my main hobby and interest.

  2. Joanne
    |

    Very interesting. Is this the sort of technique Vivienne Westwood uses? There is a gorgeous dress in her new collection that has all sorts of ruffles and folds going on which I would love for a wedding in the summer but have never seen a pattern for anything like it. What a productive start you are having to 2016!

  3. Mary Funt
    |

    Looks wonderful and it would be absolutely amazing in a soft suede. I’m very interested to see what you come up with for your bias draping projects. I love the work of Madeline Voinnet; her garments are timeless and a wonderful inspiration for bias draping. Your list of future projects is growing! We all could use more sewing time.

  4. Fabrickated
    |

    Clarinda – I was told that at VW it is all draped, back and forth with the flat pattern. I agree that commercial patterns rarely come near her designs, so I am keen to do something myself. I posted a picture of a marvellous outfit when I was mulling over the SWAP and I would like to do an intricate draped jacket at some point. Certainly worth trying the dress you like. I would be happy to spend a day with you having a go if you want.

Leave a Reply