Reading
In 2016 I read 42 books, ten short of my intention (one book a week).
I blame the knitting. Five jumpers instead of ten books. I suppose that is about right.
In our new holiday home we don’t have the internet and I am intending to spend many weekends there. So this year I intend to read at about the same rate. My resolution has so far been successful with four books already read in January.
In case you are interested in what I read last year I asterixed and provided cover images of the ones I really enjoyed.
January
- Siddhartha Mukherjee, The Emperor of All Maladies; A Biography of Cancer
- *Stephen King, The Green Mile
- Stephen King, Mr Mercedes
- Rachel Abbott, Sleep Tight
- Philip Gould, When I Die: Lessons from the Death Zone
- Marguerite van Geldermalsen, Married to a Bedouin
February
- Stephen King, Doctor Sleep
- Kate Atkinson, A God in Ruins
- Keith Houghton, No Coming Back
- Margaret Atwood, The heart goes last
March
- Liliana Hart, Dirty Little Secrets
- Ford Maddox Ford, The Good Soldier
- John Le Carre, The Night Watchman
- Ruth Picardie, Before i Say Goodbye
- Jacky Fleming, The trouble with women
April
- Mikhail Bulgakov, Heart of a Dog
- Danielle Steel, Flowers in the Snow
- *Veronica Roth, Divergent
- Veronica Roth, Insurgent
May
- Kimberley Chambers, Payback
- William Blacker, Along the Enchanted Way
- Hanya Yanagihara, A Little Life
June
- Elizabeth McKenzie, The Portable Veblen
- Michael Frayn, Towards the End of the Morning
July
- Hannah Rothschild, The improbability of Love
- Mick Herron, Slow Horses
- *Nina Sibbe, Love Nina
August
- *JM Coetze, The Schooldays of Jesus
- Mick Herron, Dead Lions
- Sue Monk Kidd, the Secret Lives of Bees
- Mhairi McFarlane, You had me at Hello
- *EL Doctorow, The Book of Daniel
September
- Macrae Burnet, His Bloody Project
- Nina Stibbe, Man at the Helm
- *Richard Flanagan, The Narrow Road to the Deep North
October
- Elena Ferante, My Brilliant Friend
- Elly Griffith, The Crossing Places
- *Ian McGuire, The North Water
November
- Margaret Atwood, Cat’s Eye
December
- Mark Edwards, Because she loves me
- Nick Alexander, Let the light shine
- *John Steinbeck, The Wayward Bus
I realise I have rather eclectic tastes – teen fiction, classics, modern prize winners and a couple of light reads – mainly British and US writers. I am OK with that – I don’t have anything to prove over 40 years after my last A Level. I have been reading a few classics to the children, such as The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, and I hope to revisit some of the great books with them.
Finally my overall winner was Ian McGuire, The North Water. Just a great story, well written with an excellent ending.
Anything you have read recently that you would care to recommend please? Just leave a comment below – many thanks!
MANSWAP #8 The 1966 Green Polo neck sweater
Firstly – I finally finish the trousers. As ever I have not reached perfection, but I have got to good enough. Gus really likes them. I will give you some properly modelled photographs at some point. Here is a picture of them still in the process – unhemmed and with tailors’ tacks – but tried on with Jumper no 1. Such a cozy, comfortable outfit for a man in winter – cords and a wooly.
Secondly – what has happened to the Sewing with a Plan? The Artisan’s Square website seems to have disappeared – any one know what is happening?
Thirdly – I finished the third item – my second knitted item.
Pattern, yarn and needles
The 1966 polo (turtle) neck sweater is from Patons and assumes you are going to use a creped Bri-Nylon, Terelene or similar “modern” 1960s acrylic yarn. I however used cashmere! I bought DK cashmere from Colourmart, in Holly. It was beautiful to knit, although this company takes yarn from companies that weave or machine knit cashmere, and then spins it into thicker yarns. So each strand is a little separate, giving an issue with it splitting apart. So you have to be a careful to catch all five ply in each stitch (I imagine there is a technical way to express this, although I am still learning the terminology).
It was a big, straightforward sweater; traditionally knitted and sewn together. A little ribbing, lots and lots of stocking stitch (one row of knitting, followed by a row of pearl) for acres, then a a bit of shaping for the armholes and neck. A couple of sleeves. Finally the collar. This involves something which sounded rather ugly – knitting it flat, then stitching it “with wrong side facing, sew up half the seam of polo collar, turn to right side and sew up rem. half”, so that the stitches don’t show when it is folded over. Although I know very little about knitting I thought the polo would be much better created with circular needles. So that is what I did, and I really liked the effect.
I stuck to the pattern and it’s a good pattern. I think the length is too short – I added lots of extra length as Gus hates a jumper or top that rides up with wear (I am the same – I like a proper tuck in). However I may have added too much in this instance.
My technique is improving I think. I didn’t drop any stitches or make a big mess anywhere and I actually quite enjoyed the “boring” knitting involved. While I really love the look of the flashy, colourful knits others produce (and I would love to do colour work myself at some point), my guess is that plain coloured, plain knitted jumpers that fit probably get worn more than something too unique. Especially for a man.
Making up
This part troubled me. As a seamstress I should have no fear of sewing seams. But I did. I sat and contemplated sewing this together for a week or so. I don’t really know how to do this job properly. I know many knitters put lots of effort in getting this stage done perfectly – making all the difference between a home made looking item and a professional one.
My sewing together is rudimentary and I just used hand stitches I am confident with – overstitching and back stitching. Many of you told me to do mattress stitch, but despite watching You tube I did not manage to crack it this time. I will have to have another go next time I make something like this.
So I am satisfied, more or less, with this item. I don’t seem to get the quantities of yarn right, and I have lots left over. So, as dark green is a colour I love I will make myself something nice in due course.
Brenda’s fabric (silk painting)
My internet friend Brenda asked me to create a special piece of silk. She intends to make herself a fit and flare type of dress. At the moment, while she is having treatment for breast cancer, she can only sew in short bursts (same for many of us without such a good excuse). So when I said it might take me some time she said not to worry.
I showed you the inspiration pictures she sent me.
Lots of nice stuff going on there but I was anxious, and daunted. I had trouble with all the elements of her specification
- deep colours
- including coppery brown
- medium scale
- flowing
- leaf and elliptical shapes
Deep colours
Brenda sent some taupe brown cuttings, alongside the other deep strong shades – purple, teal and forest green. so I felt that was my main colour scheme. However my piece started with a central motif in pinks and purples, which are rather light. As I explained in my post on how to do this, after dividing the fabric into sections I like to start with light colours. Maybe this one is a little bit like a roundel in a stained glass window. The window is framed in dark green, like old-fashioned paint, with a view of a garden through them. I then used hot wax to outline these light colours and protect them from the darker colours I was planning to add next.
I planned to create a garden (botanical instruction) because I love painting flowers. They are my natural motif (Ruth of Ruthie Sews has a leaf as hers) and I love the colours and shapes of flowers (and the smell!) and enjoy flowers in art and on fabric. But Brenda hadn’t asked for flowers!
As I filled in the background I knew that I should be doing deeper colours. One of the problems I had was that I don’t have brown, and only a small pot of black. I have lots of blue, turquoise, pink, red and yellow (my colours!). So I struggled to implement this aspect of the spec. I did lots of mixing and testing.
Leaf and elliptical shapes and flowing, medium scale design
Once the pink/mauve flower was in I felt the need to put some strong deep green lines to divide up the space. I was thinking leaves and elliptical shapes. I spent some time looking at images of teardrops and paisley too. Also Brenda had mentioned “medium scale, botanical, flowing,” which worried me a bit.
I put leaf shapes diagonally in lots of shades of mainly cooler greens. These are my ellipses. They may look a bit like mussels. I think I used about 10 shades of green to make them look fairly natural and botanical. I wasn’t sure if this was flowing enough – probably not. And I think I messed up the medium scale – this might count as a large scale design?
Coppery brown
Brenda specifically mentioned she liked wearing brown and you can see the copper verdigris, and there is a gingery brown in the peacock feathers. I knew I had to make this shade and I used orange with black and blue to make it. We used to call this “poo brown” (and not after the bear) when I was young. Sorry Brenda – this is my least favourite shade. I mixed in some turquoise which I thought set it off nicely and was true to the verdigris inspiration.
Unfortunately once the brown was on I was appalled. The photograph captures the work in progress at that point. My husband asked why I had put brown in. I was pretty crestfallen and I left it to simmer overnight.
I knew that Brenda had asked for deep shades but I felt the only way I could retrieve the work was by contrasting the brown with some strong, bright colours. I wanted red and pink in there. She hadn’t asked for it (although one of the cuttings has a purply red in it, just). I was worried but on instinct I introduced turquoise, strong bright pink, bright blue, bright light blue and bright purple. These are my colours (cool bright), whereas Brenda is deep-cool I think. And I felt it was a huge improvement. I am not sure this is what Brenda wanted me to do, but I had to do it.
The artistic process
When people ask for certain specifics I can get a bit fixated on them, and I start to worry if I can include elements I like and are “me” too. But of course this is acceptable – the whole point of a commission or a collaboration is that the creator (me) is being asked to put themselves into it. I don’t think I exactly answered the brief, but I felt Brenda wanted me to be myself and make this my own way.
I held her and her wishes close throughout the process. I knew, in my heart, that she would accept that I am going to communicate something of my own nature. Yet this was bothering me all the way through. I still don’t really like the brown in this piece myself. But overall I think it works well and I am happy with my work. I probably wouldn’t buy this in a shop as the greens and browns are a bit dark/warm/muted for me. But I think they will suit Brenda well and I love the pattern. To me it looks like bunches of grapes, malachite, delphiniums and peonies. It’s got a 1930s vibe, maybe more like a furnishing fabric than a dress fabric. But I could see it as a rather grand 1950s evening dress with a full skirt. Overall I love it, and so does Brenda. And I got 346 likes on Instagram!
“I can’t say enough how much I love the colors and the design” she kindly wrote to me. I fear she may just be saying this to make me feel good, but she is sincere as well as kind, so (riddled as I am with doubt that I may have disappointed her or failed to please her) I am going to believe she means it.
Finishing
Once the painting is finished it is necessary to iron out all the wax, then iron actively and hotly all over the cloth until we are sure the colours are fixed. I have never had any trouble with this but as this is going to someone else I thought I had better do it properly. The whole de-wax and fixing process took a few hours. Next I washed the fabric in a fairly hot wash with detergent (as the wax leaves an oily residue). Then a final press before packing it up for its return journey to the USA.
Conclusion
This was a fun project, despite the angst. I like it the finished product very much. I think it is one of the best silk painting projects I have done. Now I know Brenda has received it I feel alot better. Brenda still has a couple of chemo sessions to get through, then her operation. Once all that is behind her I expect she will make something really nice with it. I really enjoyed doing something creative for Brenda, and I hope wearing it will make her happy too.
Sewing Room Swoon
Lovely Amy from Almond Rocks contacted me to ask if I would like to send some photos of my sewing room for a regular feature in Love Sewing Magazine. For a moment I was confused. Was she talking of the one I am creating in our holiday home? If so it may take a few months to get it right – although I did start making myself a pair of trousers this weekend. But as anyone who has a second home will know – everything you need is at the other house.
One day my new sewing room will be perfect, like the pristine, zen like spaces many sewists show. With their Ikea units, pastel prints and vintage bits and bobs these spaces follow a fashionable trend. I tend to make do with old things I have had for ages, with a preference for sentimental attachments to rainbow thread features of buttons in sweetie jars, colour-coded.
But I soon realised she probably meant my sewing “area”, so I agreed, of course, at once. I love my sewing space and I am proud of it.
Like many journalists in search of copy Amy wanted the photographs yesterday. Well, not exactly, but very soon. I asked Gus to take the pictures as his phone-camera is much better than mine – but neither of us were free until the weekend.
As you might expect I had to find some time to tidy up my space. I scurried around on Thursday evening, stuffing the UFOs and other bits and pieces into my wardrobe. Then I thought it looked a bit plain so I pulled my Napoleon Six dress on Camilla (my K&L stand) but of course it was fairly fitted so I couldn’t do up the zip. Then I thought I would include one of my hats for a bit of colour. I don’t really sew with Carol wedged behind the overlocker. Amy’s caption made me laugh: “a decluttered space, for a decluttered mind”. Good job she hadn’t seen it before. Or into my mind, come to think of it. I am often in a muddle and forget crucial things all the time, such are the demands on my time.
Then Gus suggested a shot of “the cupboard”, aka “Mum’s cupboard”, aka my “stash”. And my notice board. Neither were tidy, but I let him take pictures anyway. And one of me, grinning. In my Lorelle jumper. I have to thank Amy for cropping the pictures considerately and for including some very sweet words about me.
My sewing space is small, busy and messier than the photographs show. What’s yours like?
MANSWAP #7 (Nearly) finishing the brown corduroy trousers
Last week I left you with a cliff hanger! Would letting out the back seam fix the problem of the trousers-that-were-too-tight?
Last week I explained that the brown corduroy trousers I am making for my son turned out a little too snug. Demented Fairy suggested Gus might have over-indulged over the Christmas break. While that was true I think the fault was all mine. Because my toile, made with thin calico, fitted well I hurtled straight to the real thing. In thick corduroy. The toile omitted pockets and fly, so taking that all into account I felt I had lost and inch or so – enough to use up all the ease. And make Gus uncomfortable in the strides. I posted pictures.
Thank you for your advice, and the interesting insights in how to fit Gus – the cupping of his rear, the thickness of his thighs, and the shape of his stomach were discussed on this blog. Poor guy – rather than being fitted in the privacy of a gentlemen’s outfitters changing room by a professional his figure is being viewed and discussed world-wide. Thankfully he is a good sport – this is the cost of free, made-to-measure wardrobe.
So I said I would fix the issue via men’s secret seam – the split waist band and wide CB seam with lots of excess fabric in it. I was excited to try such a classic move. I gave it a try, and it certainly worked technically. Supurb. But Gus looked a bit like he was standing in a bucket. Way too much fullness at this point. Gus’s bum now looked big.
I think many of you will know that I share my home with my husband Nick, and that various children and grandchildren are in and out of the flat as they all live very close by. While I was fitting Gus Nick got involved and as a result you will see that the side seam is now pinned. That was because Nick hates “flaps” around his thigh area, and he persuaded Gus that he also needed the leg slimmed down a bit.
There was now only one thing for it – I had to pull the pants apart and reshape the outer leg seams too. I felt it was worth doing this properly as I had to make these pants at least twice more and I needed to understand the shape of that outside leg seam. This is how I make my own trousers and skirts. I have an intuitive understanding of my shape from the side (amongst other important lines) and I could draw in a trouser side seam by hand if I had too. With Gus this is a good way to understand his shape.
Once I had pressed the seams open I laid the pants out on the cutting table and chalked in new side seams, taking out fullness across the thigh but allowing a little more ease across the seat and front body. I took the CB seam in again, but less than originally, and I measured everything carefully. I then thread tacked all the seams (the two fronts together, and the two backs) so that not only would they match but I could also understand the shape. I then carefully pined the thread tacks together and remade the pants.
These are beginning to look great, I think. Gus finds them comfortable and they look nice. I don’t think he had ever worn cord before and likes the softness, warmth and yield of these pants. He liked the look with brogues and a dark T. “I will definitely wear these for work” he said. At this stage the waistband is unfinished, the belt loops are missing, the trousers are pinned closed and the hems are not done. The CB may still need a little tweak and the fly needs to be redone.
At my snail’s pace that will be another week, Sir.
So farwell Michelle – we so enjoyed your clothes!
Female Presidents and Prime Ministers are few and far between. We have one in the UK, in fact our second, but generally world leaders are men. So it is inevitable that some of the most prominent women we are aware of are famous for being married to Presidents and Prime Ministers. I reviewed Sam Cam when her husband left office, and I have touched on the style of Carla Bruni, but the one of the best is Michelle Obama.
What a woman! I won’t comment here on her role as “FLOTUS”, as lots has already been written. I need to talk about her clothes because this is a fashion and style blog.
The punch line, for me, is this woman looks fabulous in blocks of strong colour. Dazzling!
Michelle is tall with an athletic figure, but her underlying silhouette is shaped. Her waist is nicely defined, and with small bust and larger hips she would be described as “pear shaped”. She looks best when she keep the top half neat and fitted and allows some fullness or an A line for the skirt. However a well cut sheath dress does look good on her as she is slim with much of her height in her legs. If you sat down next to Mrs Obama she would not tower over you, but stand next to her and an average woman would look comparatively short.
Many woman who are pear shaped are a bit self conscious of wearing trousers, and I don’t think trousers are Michelle’s best look, but some shapes are better than others. I prefer the narrow legged pants (jeans with boots and the bright blue pair) rather than the very full black and white pants she is wearing with Bruni and Cameron.
For another view Jess Cartner-Morley of the Guardian has this to say about Michelle’s wardrobe, but some of the outfits she has chosen are not my cup of tea. In fact I think the green evening dress looks a bit droopy in the bust. And personally I find the shiny gold/orange Versace dress rather unpleasant.
Nevertheless Michelle brought a sense of fun and style to the White House and she championed American designers, many of them from minority communities.
I expect that we will see some interesting outfits from Melania over the next few years, but I will miss Michelle.
2017 Resolutions and Plans
I got a bit bored of people saying 2016 was an exceptionally bad year. A few rock stars died and the people voted for some unpalatable choices. But come on – compared to years gone past we didn’t have so much to worry about. In the Western World at least we have eliminated much disease, absolute poverty and have created a wobbly support system for those most in need. Life expectancy and child health is overall improving annually and most of us have lots of choice. In my pocket I have a device that extends my brain power so I can know and do so much more than before. Not everyone is so lucky and progress is hard. But in my optimistic world view nothing is impossible. Humanity is amazing and can, with a will, conquer most things with time, commitment, investment and technology.
Sorry. Rant over.
I am happy with my lot.
I realise I have many advantages and benefits, and I am very privileged. Nowhere is this more obvious than in the fact that we have been able to buy a second home this year. As someone who works in homelessness and housing I had to consider this carefully. We have worked hard to make and save the money and I cashed in my pension and sold up my valuables. We plan to holidays here rather than fly off to fancy places. We will share our good fortune with family and friends.
My other huge advantages are in having an amazing husband, Mum, children, step children and grandchildren; and having a job I love and believe to be important.
What are my resolutions?
- Carry on knitting, learn more techniques and produce better quality garments
- a couple of Ankestrict patterns
- some colourwork
- a cabled jumper
- a range of hats, for visitors
- maybe, just maybe, knit some socks.
- Do the MANSWAP for Gus, really getting to know more about making menswear
- Run a 10K race for charity (from a standing start – I don’t really like running)
- Read a book a week
- Spend more time in the country, learning about our new area
- Be kinder and more understanding; listen more
- Finally do a jewellery class, with Nick
And my own sewing plans for the year?
I still think I have too many clothes. But I feel this year, once we have readjusted to a new life style (town and work in the week; country and leisure at weekends) I may need to make some wardrobe changes too. I feel like a big chuck out, really paring things down. In the country I have been wearing Uniqlo leggings and long sleeved Ts. I have several colours of top and they look nice layered; my bottoms are all navy. These items are warm, snug, lightweight and flattering. And reasonably priced. I was not suprised to read this : “The collection is a firm Vogue favourite, thanks to innovative technology that retains heat in winter months despite coming in the softest, thinnest of layers to allow for extra stretch and mobility.” (Vogue magazine). M&S also now make these tops and leggings too.
In the country (at this cold time of year) I wear my “base-layer” constantly as:
- nightwear (we had no heating or hot water for a while, so this was necessary)
- house-wear (when we are at home in the day it is now so warm and comfortable that i just wear these items in the house with bare feet (underfloor heating) or slippers
- underwear (when I go out on walks the base layer forms a warm shield against the cold – serving as vest and long johns). Over the top I put jeans or trousers, a hand knit, a couple of down jackets and my leather coat/waterproof, with wellies or walking boots.
However I have a few ideas percolating.
- As I sew the MANSWAP I may make up some of the items for myself too –
- this includes a pair of cords
- a bomber jacket
- and maybe a white shirt
- a pair of jeans
- Inspired by making silk for Brenda I want to make a summer dress with some hand painted silk (this has been a plan for a very long time)
- I would like a long, evening cloak in green velvet
- Some of the items I previously discussed for a casual wardrobe
- Something for work – a nice jacket, dress or skirt, a suit would be ideal – perhaps using one of my vintage couture patterns
- A few presents, for example little purses which I saw on Jenny @lilaccat’s instagram
- Non-clothes items eg cushions and chair covers for the new house.
As you can see, nothing pressing and maybe I won’t sew much for myself this year. The SWAP, the soft furnishings, plus knitting will keep me busy until May.
I realise these plans may disappoint the purist. I hope you will stay with me even if you love pictures of ladieswear straight off the sewing machine!
MANSWAP #6 The brown corduroy trousers
With the Sewing with a Plan it is generally Planning first, then after Christmas Sewing starts. Sometimes one or two garments can be made ahead. I “planned” to start these trousers early as I had had great success with the toile. But moving into our new holiday home, and then entertaining most of the family over Christmas, meant I was doing more laundry and cooking than sewing. Never mind.
The pattern
For these trousers I used the Make My Pattern Slimline Pants.
As I had toiled it already I was fairly confident of the pattern. It is based on Winifred Aldrich, but digitised and made to your individual measurements (if you are a man). I was very pleased with the design, which is just a very classic pair of mens’ trousers. Gus likes a relatively high waist and was pleased with the way these come up a fair way at the front. The trousers fit well across the front and back – not too much ease, but certainly not an overly “trendy” look. The width of the legs is pretty classic too. We didn’t look at the fuller pants pattern – I think these might appeal to an older man, but not for Gus.
The materials
I was keen to get Gus to try wearing brown. Although he has cool colouring he also suits the more muted shades. So while brown is generally a warmer colour (as it has a fair amount of yellow in it) I was looking for more of a grey-brown (taupe) which is a particularly nice shade. So I searched quite hard for the right shade of corduroy. I wanted a thicker whale, and to avoid the very bright/cheaper looking shades. I found some fabric I really liked, on sale from My Fabrics (now sold out in brown). The piece I got had a few small faults in it, but I got 3m for about £12 so I was pleased with it. As I hadn’t made up the pattern before I figured I could sacrifice these pants if things did not go according to plan.
For lining the pockets etc I recycled the terrible trousers I made with my cling film pattern. I used an iron-on interfacing for the waistband and pockets.
The construction
Before I started I examined carefully a pair of cords my husband wears. Here are a few close up of the details.
Construction
Many aspects of the construction of these trousers were new to me, as I had never made mens’ trousers before. For example
- split waist band
- double welt back pockets
- front pocket construction differs from my experience
- use of lining material on the back of the waist band
- very unusual fly construction
So I was learning lots on my first pair. I was tempted to go and do my own thing, especially with the fly, but in the end I just trusted the pattern and the very extensive written documentation. There are videos too if you need more help. Joost de Cock has tried very hard to make the trouser making experience one that a beginner can tackle. I loved that about the whole package. However it is worth mentioning, politely, that there are a few errors in the labeling, instructions and descriptions. Not too bad but there is room for confusion if you are actually a beginner. I wondered why Joost had not called for pattern testers and got a range of people to go through the pattern with a fine tooth comb. I imagine lots would have volunteered (me for example!)
As I am making these trousers at least twice more for the SWAP I am going to persevere.
Everything worked out pretty well, although I am not happy with the fly. I didn’t like the method and the finish is not very good – it looks amature. I commented on this on Instagram, and the dear designer responded. Joost De Cock was open to looking at other approaches so I recommended my old favourite as it creates a great finish every time. However it needs a grown on fly facing which this pattern doesn’t have. And it doesn’t include a fly shield.
Second fitting
I find making my own clothes that I have a good feel for whether an item will fit or not as I have an internal map of my own body in my head. Making for Gus has seemed like my map is way out – Gus is much bigger than I am. So everything I have made so far seems huge. Because Gus is not always available – whereas I am when I am sewing for myself – I pressed on with the construction without fitting at every stage. I relied on the fact that the toile was a good fit.
However once they were sewn up to the waist band, but not finished, I got Gus to try them on. Unfortunately they were a little bit tight. I was very disappointed and couldn’t understand what had gone wrong. I had sewn the seam allowances at 1.5cm as required yet they needed some ease across the body (the legs were fine). What had happened?
I think the main reason was that the toile was made in calico, and the corduroy is much chunkier. Also once I had got pockets and pocket bags in I guess that took up another centimetre or two.
So I thought I would undo all the seams and use a 1cm seam allowance instead. Then I had a brain wave.
The trousers are constructed with an extra wedge at the CB seam to allow for a little bit of weight gain. I put this in, mainly for the experience. The fact they were too snug gave me the ideal excuse to use the extra fabric to let the pants out. I will try this and report back!
Guest blog by Lucy Glynn on Fashion Cities Africa
Not very long ago Grace of Good Mom Bad Mom (aren’t we all?) wrote to ask if I had been to see the Fashion Cities Africa exhibition in Brighton, and asked for a review. As Brighton is a little way from London I asked my dear friend Lucy (who lives there) if she would go and see it, and do a guest post for us. And she kindly agreed. Over to you Lucy.
Fashion Cities Africa is a small exhibition shown in Brighton Museum, set within the Royal Pavilion grounds. Heralded as ‘”the first major UK exhibition dedicated to contemporary African fashion”, it was always going to be difficult for a relatively small display to live up to its billing.
The exhibition covers fashion design and culture in Casablanca in Morocco, Lagos in Nigeria, Nairobi in Kenya, and Johannesburg in South Africa. The geographical range shows the diversity of a vast continent, but it was less clear what unites these locations and the fashion that they each produce. There was a theme of contrasting the incivility of modern African cities, with the gloss of fashion, and an implication that this juxtaposition sets the continent’s fashion scenes apart from those in the West. The designers in some of these cities arguably have to work harder and be more creative than their western contemporaries, without the same infrastructure in place to give them a headstart.
The exhibits range in style from a minority of pieces which may immediately be identifiable as African, to a larger array of clothing which is less obviously related to its origins. Thula Sindi sums up what the exhibition shows us about many of the African designers included when he tells us “I am interested in something that’s contemporary, that has a global appeal; with the African touch, but that’s not a cliché”. Maria McCloy is one featured designer whose designs incorporate traditional African dress as a political statement to redress years where “anything African and traditional is either not seen as sexy and sophisticated, or relegated to special traditional occasions”.
The most interesting aspects of the exhibition for me where were my own assumptions were tested. There was a fascinating spotlight on how the aid efforts of the 1980s that followed campaign such as Live Aid, have mutated into a fashion scene of their own. The Nairobi-based 2ManySiblings designers are examples of a thriving recycled fashion scene which explicitly plays on the ideas of charity and waste, by upcycling the large amounts of clothing in circulation that has been donated by the benevolent first world.
Another revelation was that ‘wax prints’ (also known as ‘fancy prints’ or ‘ankara’), the brightly coloured cloths that provide the backdrop to the exhibition’s branding, and form a lot of what I think of when I envisage African fashion, are a subject of some controversy. |These prints actually originate from European manufacturers and were first sold in Indonesia before being exported to West Africa. I am a big fan of these unashamedly brash fabrics, and was initially disappointed that the exhibition was centred on far more subtle designs. Where the wax prints do appear, they serve to gently question my preconceptions, informing me of an ongoing debate about cultural appropriation, authenticity and condescension.
Elsewhere there are comments on multiculturalism and diversity in the modern Africa, such as the work of the Sartists who politicize fashion by referencing colonial-era dress in their designs, and in garments incorporating techniques from different cultures, such as Said Mahrouf’s Moroccan embroidery on Indian silk with complex ‘western’ draping techniques.
As I said at the outset, this is not a large exhibition, and Some of the items of clothing displayed were indistinguishable from simple western fashion. I would have liked to have seen more of the native textiles that many of the designers referred to in the exhibit labels. However, in explaining his objection to wax prints, Sunny Dolat, a stylist from Kenya finds that they “parallel the ‘Africa is a country’ narrative. Despite the diversity of African fashion, it is garments that use wax print that get the most publicity”. For me, this statement summarises the success of this exhibition, which taught me more of what African fashion has to offer than is usually shown to British audiences.
2016 Reflections
A number of people have been sharing their hits and misses from 2016 (me included). The braver ones go on to share their reflections on the past year, and their plans for the new. I really enjoy reading these posts as it hard to get perspective on the trails and tribulations, joys and pleasures, without a little distance.
Gratitude
Firstly a huge, and heartfelt thank you every one who has read the blog, commented on my posts, offered advice and help (especially knitting help, but also tailoring and fitting help).
My community
As a child I understood community as being family-based (especially cousins) plus my local neighbourhood. As I aged my community was work based, plus people I knew through my political interests. Now my community is as much a virtual one as any other. This doesn’t diminish my real life relationships – in fact I meet up with bloggers and sewing people whenever I get the chance. But the rich and important relationships I have made through sewing are of a fundamentally different quality to some of the relationships one has in the course of everyday life. The supportive understanding, with just a tiny bit of helpful challenge, has enriched my life in so many ways. In a sentence we “get” each other, don’t we? – how we struggle, learn, share, encourage those with less skill and win praise for our achievements.
I follow lots of blogs and comment whenever I can, and I appreciate more than I can say all those who stop by to say something here. I like to think I am hosting a virtual party! I wish I could do this in real life more often but I do it when I can – food, drink, a warm welcome – but even virtually I hope you will discuss, debate and share. The comments are the best part of this blog and I know many of you enjoy reading what others think. Dozens read but never comment, which is also fine. But if you do find time to say hello from time to time, please do. It means so much.
A new focus
I wrote an impassioned post about having too many clothes, and I am still feeling the truth of that. I really enjoy making clothes but I have a huge wardrobe that suits my lifestyle, and it would probably last me for the rest of my life.
As a result I have decided to do a SWAP (11 coordinated garments) for my son Gus this year. One of my main motivations for sewing is the learning that it involves, so learning more about men’s fitting and construction is a positive aspect of my apparently “selfless sewing”.
This year we did some doll-making workshops, and hat making, and indigo dying, as well as pattern cutting. I absolutely loved learning new techniques and extending my sewing skills (mainly hand sewing with the dolls and hats).
This year my friend Bukky had a little girl. She looks alot like my Ted doll!
I learnt how to crochet a hat in the doll making class, and it brought back to me that I did actually know how to do it but I had forgotten. And then a chance conversation with a woman I see at the bus stop led me to consider her advice that crochet is a lot easier on public transport than knitting. So perhaps something new to try in 2016?
But knitting has proved to be the most interesting new interest for me, so thank you to everyone who helped me overcome my fear of actually making a garment. The dressmaking background has definitely helped, but mainly I had to overcome my fear of failure. As I watched my two year old grandson learn to talk this year I realised that everything worth doing takes considerable practise, and you make lots of mistakes along the way. Kit would repeat himself many times until we understood what he meant. And many skills just require perseverance. With the knitting I now believe I can make just about anything I would like to wear. So I expect 2017 may have more knitwear in it. I like knitting and love wearing soft, cuddly knitted jerseys.
Family, aging and death
Growing older is a privilege. My dear old Mum is now in her late 80s and cannot walk anymore. She needs help to get about, but her mind, hearing and sight are good. We go up North once a month and spend a day or two with her. She still goes out to the shops, loves being taken to restaurants and enjoys a full life, but restricted mobility creates dependence which is not easy. Let’s try to stay active, engaged and as helpful to others as we can, but when we need help let’s just accept it gladly.
My dear ex-husband John died this year, never experiencing the joy of retirement and slowing down a little. He hated the dependency that his illness brought with it, and fought to the bitter end to avoid the reality of his condition. And to protect us all from his pain, fears and loss of control. His death was a giant blow for our family and I feel like I lost a leg. He was such an important person for my kids even though they are all over 25. Neither I nor Nick nor Jo can possibly supply the unique style of love, care and support he offered the children. But we will try.
I am also thinking of my own aging. I am not intending to quit my job for another five or six years. But with Nick retired and our holiday/weekend home complete, I am changing gear. I was never a one for staying up late, going to clubs, or listening to rock music. But I love meeting new people, making friends and having conversations. This year we will be spending more time in the country, breathing fresh air and just enjoying nature. I expect our centre of gravity will begin to shift a little in the coming months. Being a grandparent continues to be my greatest joy, and I find spending time with the little ones to be a real pleasure and such fun.
I will share my 2017 sewing and knitting plans, and some of my life plans, in a future post. Thank you again for reading and responding.
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