18 Sep 2018

Vogue 8333 jacket

by | posted in: History of fashion, WIP (work in progress) | 13

The pattern

It’s a long time since I cut out this pattern. I think it was about October 2017, so nearly a year ago. And even longer since I bought it. This was one of the first patterns I bought when I came back to sewing in 2014. It was printed in 2006.

Claire Shaeffer is a brilliant teacher – I have enjoyed reading and using her books. I made up a couple of her patterns. I follow her on Facebook, and at one point she kindly contacted me to congratulate me on making my favourite dress. She doesn’t teach any more, but one of my bucket list plans had been to attend a class with her.

I don’t know exactly the story of Claire’s pattern series, except that they have couture sewing advice clearly outlined in the notes. I  made Vogue 8804 a couple of times in both the long and short ways (couture and soft tailoring approaches). Having a look at Claire’s collection it seems likely that she has developed patterns based on interesting vintage designs – maybe jackets, dresses and coats she has in her collection or has examined closely. I think I read that she sees herself primarily as a couture constructor rather than a designer, and I admire her for that. I think there are some beautiful shapes here and if the patterns were available they would be the kind of thing I would like to make up.

This is a really pretty pattern in my view.  I love the look of the jacket on the envelope. The collar and lapel, and the waisted look is a 1940s look in my opinion. The sleeves are narrow and well-balanced. Many of Claire’s patterns celebrate an hour-glass figure. Although I have not met Claire herself she appears to be fairly petite and slim with a shaped figure. In any event I think she likes a classic feminine look.

I decided to follow the instructions to make the jacket B – the quick method including a bagged lining. For some reason I haven’t made a jacket with a bagged lining. Also what was new to me was to underlining the whole bodice, everything bar the sleeves, with an iron-on product. So I decided to try it all out.

The fabric

I haven’t tested this fabric which was sold to me as linen. However I would not be surprised if it included silk as it has a definite sheen. It may also include wool. I would say, although it was inexpensive (about £8 p/m from Simply Fabrics)

Fitting

It did not occur to me to make a toile on this occasion. I used a fabric that I had bought for another project, a jacket for my son Gus, in the hope that I could make a wearable jacket and learn about the fitting from making it up. I cut out a size 10 which is purportedly for a bust of 32 and a half inches, with a 25 inch waist, and 34 and half inches for the hips. I am actually a bit bigger than this (about 33, 26 and 38) but I do like a fitted look.

Once I had assembled the jacket it was clear there was too much fabric across the centre back. I just pinned it on myself with my hands behind my back, so you can see it is not very accurate. The shoulders and front looked quite nice.

I took 1cm out at each of the seven seams – the two side seams, the centre back seam, the two princess lines, and the style line seams. That’s about 14cms, tapering up and down to the hip! It is quite a lot of fullness to suppress, but I have a fairly narrow back and also I wanted a more interesting style. Often Vogue patterns have quite a lot of ease in them and I have to do something like this.

Fitting V 8333
Too much fabric in the back of the jacket

Construction

Although the jacket can be made with couture approaches plan B is not difficult. Even the pocket approach – hiding them in a pleat at the front went together very easily. The sleeves are nice and went in well too. I used shoulder pads. The jacket looks a little bit tight on Camilla, who is a little wide wider in the waist than I am.

Vogue 3888
V 3888

All was going swimmingly. However I have got to the bagged out lining. I can’t understand the instructions! I am sure it will make sense once I do it but I am falling over at the first hurdle. I guess the internet will provide a video or more information on how to do it.

Any hints?

 

13 Responses

  2. Diane G
    |

    I Kate. This jacket will be beautiful once you have the fit sussed. As fo bagging, after all of the years that I’ve sewn jackets I’ve never actually bagged a lining. I use a simpler techinque using some hand sewing. However I know Tany of Tany Sews and Knits has lots of gab tailoring tutorials and there is one on bagging somewhere in her blog. Hope this helps.

  3. Chris
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    Hi Kate, bagging out a jacket is one of those techniques that can be difficult to get your head around, but once you know how, you’ll love the clean finish it gives. Sherry from New Zealand had a fantastic series on her blog that I loved … whenever I get around to making my winter coat, I’ll be referring back to it. If the link doesn’t work try searching her blog for the Rtw tailoring sewalong. https://patternscissorscloth.com/tricks-of-the-trade-2/

  5. Ellen Miller
    |

    Hey Kate! I love using the “Bagged” lining technique. I think the Grainline tutorial above is pretty good.
    Basically, you want to dress the jacket in the lining, right sides together, with the lining on the outside. Don’t worry about the sleeves right now. Sew the lining to the jacket from one hem corner along the facing to the other hem corner. (There’s probably some ease in the lining between the waist and hem– you can either sew this as a pleat or gather/ease. It’s there to let you reach for something when you’re sitting down.) Turn everything right sides out to check you work. If it’s fine, turn everything inside out again and press the seam. Turn again and press the seams on the right side.

    Turn everything to right side together and sew the hems together. I often find the hem intersections at center front to be confusing when the right side are together, so I start sewing the hem an inch or tow away from CF. It’s easy to sew these little bits by hand when everything is turned right sides out.

    The sleeves are tricky, but I like to pin the sleeve hem as they will look when finished. Make a small opening one of the underarm seams to get to the inside of the jacket. Turn the whole jacket through the opening, so you’re looking at right sides together. Pin the sleeve hems from the wrong side without removing the right side pins. Once you have a twisted mess you can remove the right side pins and repin the sleeve hems properly with right sides together. Don’t untwist things to repin the hems. Turn the whole jacket through the opening and double check your pinning. Then sew the sleeve hems. Press. Turn the whole jacket through the opening again to get the right sides out. Finally sew up your under arm seam.

    I hope this helps! xo, Ellen

    • fabrickated
      |

      Thanks so much for this careful and detailed explanation Ellen. I read it a couple of days ago but it made my brain hurt! I am now reading it again with the jacket in my hands and I determined to give it a go. I am sure it will make sense if I just go for it but I am feeling rather nervous…

  7. Sue Stoney
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    You’ve had some really good advice re the bagging, Kate. I have a couple of good books left to me by my mother, but they won’t be of any help to you! I love the golden fabric, this is going to be a jacket that you’ll be able to team with everything and look very polished. Looking forward to the next episode!

  8. RUTH FORRESTER
    |

    This was one the very first patterns I used for full traditional tailoring techniques when I returned to sewing about 10 years ago. I made mine in dusky pink wool and it is still in my autumn/winter rotation. Can I remember what I did or how I did it? Nay. Nowadays, I’d document it on my blog, more to remind myself than inform others….
    You truly cannot do better than this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jAySD4nzBY

    It’s a lovely jacket design Kate and I’m thinking about bringing it back out again for some of my newly acquired Linton wools.

  9. Blak Blanc
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    Your jacket is looking beautiful. You did some job on grading it down to fit! Thanks so much for posting this, I am going to cut out my version next week because I just had to make this based on your style.

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