The trousers
Thank you to (grumpy) Karen who suggested I tried Make My Pattern. I was sceptical, to be honest. I have nice vintage men’s trouser patterns – why would I want Aldrich blocks?
Then I looked at the website and discovered it is a brilliant concept.
Joost de Cock has, apart from a memorable name, created a site that allows you to print off patterns (mainly for men) with your own measurements. He has not only digitised Winifred Aldrich’s basic trouser patterns, he has devised an algorithm to create the right dimensions, and he offers the patterns free. It is an amazingly generous offer.
But does it work?
The pattern
Joost offers a standard male trouser block and a slimmer, fitted trouser block. As my model is slim I went for the more fitted look. After a little puzzlement I typed in Gus’s measurements and ran off the pattern – on A3 paper, which is half the work. So far so good.
To test the pattern I made up a basic toile, omitting the pockets and fly. I put a (dark green) zip in the CF which is not very beautiful but it allows the trousers to be fitted. I used some remnants of an Ikea curtain for the waistband and ironed on some interfacing.
Fitting
You can immediately see the trousers are too long. That’s my fault as I measured the length generously. The waist is a little bit big too. But overall Gus was pleased with the rather old-fashioned, high waist look, which came to exactly the right spot for him – about 2cms below the navel.
With the back view you can see there is a little wedge that can come out of the CB waist band and about 1″ down where Gus is fairly flat. I pinned this out.
Once I had pinned up the hems and taken out about 1cm at the CB I think the fit is pretty good. Once the pockets, belt carriers and fly front is in these will look quite classy I think.
Gus’s back waist is higher than his front waist. This is something I might fix, but overall for a straight “out of the packet” experience this was second to none. Gus liked them. Even more surprising my daughter Esme gave them the thumbs up. Unbelievable.
Sewing with a Plan
Gus and I think we can use this pattern, as it is, for two pairs of trousers. The trousers will be one pair of cords, one pair in linen. We discussed the shorts and I suggested we might need a different pattern – perhaps slightly fuller. Esme argued that the waistband should be lower for shorts. In the end Gus prevailed. He thinks shorts should mainly look like cut down trousers. And he likes the high waist and wants it as a feature on his four pairs of trousers (cords, linen, shorts and jeans). So, apart from the jeans, we have the bottoms sorted. Not bad for just over one hours work.
Construction
Joost provides very detailed instructions for making tailored pants. For me they look a tad too detailed, but they are written for beginners – men who are being encouraged to make their own clothes. I think they are great for this purpose and there are some videos too, which I haven’t watched. When making pants for myself and Esme I wrote a post on the order of work part 1; and 2; I think I will refer back to this as it is slightly shorter. When I mentioned that Makemypattern trousers seemed promising Sue Stoney admitted her husband wore nothing else. No other under pants I mean.
Sue
I’m glad you like the Make My Pattern site, as I suspect an enormous amount of work has gone into its development. The trousers are looking really good and I look forward to seeing them in their finished form. The fact that he likes them means that he will actually wear them which is always a bonus. I was so surprised to see my photo on your blog, and you’re correct, Mark loves his MMP underwear. I had to laugh because I’m still putting together a final (or penultimate) blog of our UK trip and I’ve put a photo of you in it!
Marianne
Those trousers look good! Looking forward to see them made up in cords. I only heard about the shirts on Joost’s site but these are just what I’m looking for to sew for my husband so thanks for the review!
Karen Kayes
Those trousers are looking great, what a great resource you found. I never tried Lekala who do the same for women I believe, off to check them out whilst I’m here. Good luck with sewing them up!
Gail
I would love to tackle men’s trousers – particularly as my husband is a reluctant shopper. Your toile is pretty close.
Stephanie
Wow how fortunate that the trousers panned out so quickly!
Annieloveslinen
Those look very promising. Joost is very generous sharing his knowledge and work on pattern blocks.
I am surprised to see Sue popping up here, it’s a small world. I think auto correct is being mischievous, it reads like Mark goes commando but that’s not what you meant, ?
Brenda
Success! I’m glad you tried this option. 🙂
Ruth
Now, that’s a very interesting website – Make My Pattern.
Thanks Kate. And Gus’s trousers look great.
Seamsoddlouise
Wow what an amazing resource. I shall check them out in the new year! The toile looks good to go.
Kim
That looks like a very good alternative to drafting your own pattern. The trouser toilet looks good on Gus. Only minor changes needed – excellent!
Kim
Aaargh. Damn auto correct. Sorry I didn’t double check this ?