6 Feb 2016

Sewing with a Plan 2016 0.16

by | posted in: Designing, WIP (work in progress) | 15

I was determined to crack on with my Pucci pant suit.

The pants

I had already toiled the pants so making them up was a quick job. I decided to reduce the high waist by 2″, which means they nestle down on the low waist rather than coming up very high. I think maybe I should have only shortened them by 1″. The fit is nice, and I think the shape and style is true to the 1960s. The Pucci pattern, Vogue 2333, has a wide legged trouser, but I tapered the leg to look more like the Pucci pattern that I don’t own.

I really enjoyed working with the faux dupion. I rarely work with polyester but this one looked indistinguishable from the real thing. It frayed a little more, but I dealt with this by overlocking before I started. The pants are just two pieces – each back and front leg section has a front dart, a back dart and a side seam dart. They feature a CB zip (I used an invisible one). The simple construction and the pliable but firm cloth meant these trousers went together in a matter of minutes. The pattern (V 2333) was a bargain because the trouser facings were missing. I had intended to make fresh facings, but due to the low cut of the pants I just used a piece of yellow bias binding. I machine stitched the hem as these will be covered by the trimmings. I have to admit that I was influenced in the shape and colour of these trousers by a pair of pink silk Schiaparelli trousers I saw at the Women, Fashion, Power exhibition this time last year. I wish I had her sunglasses and their lovely Parisian case.

The tunic

I took some of the flare and fullness out of the tunic, but not too much. I added a couple of back darts as it was a bit too full. I considered changing the neckline but in the end went with the high round neck as the Galatzine outfit that I covet has a high round neck, with the trimming creating the depth. I kept the side splits but won’t decorate them as I prefer a plainer look.  I omitted the collar and sleeves, and made facings instead. I used an invisible zip.

The trimming

I actually like all the trimming ideas. The sweet peas are just being held against the pink, but they might look lovely if I separated them and mixed up the colours. I like the bright blue with big pink flowers although it’s not really right on this occasion. The silver trims are all nice and with a few beads I think I could put a good look together. But I am afraid the vintage sari trim wins hands down. Even though the mitering is a bit wonky I just love it.

The blog

I am going to change my schedule, just a little. I will now be posting on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.

 

15 Responses

  2. thedementedfairy
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    Gorgeous! Little teaser shots of works in progress do keep everyone interested don’t they? *Note to self: get some WIP shots up later today*
    I also love all the trims, and would find it hard to choose a winner. I hope you use the sweetpea idea on something else in the collection…maybe play with a few of the petals on the side-lined sequinned dress? I think sometimes, as home dressmakers, we are very restrained with trim- I’m enjoying going lavish on some of my current makes. Think Valentino, let your embellishments free!

    • fabrickated
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      Yes I completely agree about the embellishment. Doing it for this SWAP has made me realise just how predictable and samey lots of my work has been – I know a navy skirt is useful but sometimes you need something sensational – especially with age I think. More daring, more interesting, more beautiful.

      • Stephanie
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        I need to take this lesson from both of you! I’ve been thinking the same thing about my SWAP – very samey. Love the sari trim, K. I also love the bold trim with the blue and the big flowers.

  3. Jay
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    The Sari trim is pretty, though I was secretly hoping you’d go for the sweet peas, maybe they’ll turn up on something else? I’ve used a man made duppion and found it good, sometimes a good quality rayon or poly hits the spot. Heavy quality man made duchesse satins can be pretty useful too, and a lot cheaper than silk.

    • fabrickated
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      Jay, and DF, yes I love the sweat peas too and I have an idea of how to use them. I am itching to finish the pant suit so I can experiment. I mentioned I was doing a draping class so the sweat peas may combine with a draped top. We have a flared one, a twisted one and a cowl one coming up….And I do a bias draping course next weekend (Valentines day!)

  4. mrsmole
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    Nothing wrong with poly dupionni, said the bridal seamstress…ha ha It is nice and sturdy and washable and once made up one can hardly tell the difference! Love your sweet peas and like the others…looking forward to seeing them make an appearance later. We can get into a groove/rut with making our own clothes and that is when we have to take a step back/forward and see things through fresh eyes and try new/vintage things. You continue to tease and treat us to exactly that…just as we think we know what is coming next…BAM…you hit us with something unpredictable!

  5. Kim Hood
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    The sari trim looks lovely sitting on the neckline. Strangely the large flowers I liked so much originally I like least on the garment. I’m sure this will look stunning when finished – and I agree that we should all break out a bit more with the trim!

  6. Jennifer Miller
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    It seems I’ve missed some posts and have some catching up to do. Looking at the trim selections you show here, I must agree that the sari trim is exquisite! Your comment to DF regarding SWAP was interesting….as you know, my sewing is sluggish at best, so nothing remotely sensational. But my wardrobe has never been anything more than utilitarian, and by george, it is time to put pizzazz into it!

  7. SJ Kurtz
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    Oh golly!
    (what is the blog comment for: I can’t stop laughing because I only own two Pucci patterns, and they are the ones at the top, and while I don’t have that sari trim, I have it’s twin sister and was thinking that would work best for this. It’s lightweight, visually holds its own, wants to be featured front and center).

    I’d really like to thank you for doing all the heavy lifting for me on this one. I should be able to start and finish it this weekend…..(falls off chair, laughing too hard to roll around).
    Okay, it has to wait for SewExpo, so I can get more of the trim. March. Show and tell in March.

    • fabrickated
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      I am so looking forward to seeing your version which is lighter for your warmer climate. I have loved using trim this SWAP and see more of it coming into my clothes in future.

  9. Ruth
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    Glad to see you’re still on track with SWAP and making quite spectacular headway too.
    My mum still has a trouser suit she made when I was little, maybe 50 years ago – petrol blue silk dupion, narrow legs, ankle length and a tunic with sequin trims at neck and cuffs. She doesn’t wear it anymore but she obviously loved it too much to give away. Your Pucci reminds me so much of it.

    • fabrickated
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      Oh Ruth that sounds amazing. She sounds very stylish (like you). Mine feels a bit ethnic-Indian (obviously given the sari trim) and I thought back to your post on shalwar kameez, and a recent post by Jay on Indian trousers.

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