11 Mar 2015

Nina Ricci Vogue Paris Original 1650 – Part Four

by | posted in: WIP (work in progress) | 9

I am a little behind but I have started to make the jacket for my charcoal (or it is navy?) suit.

Vogue Paris Originals 1650
Vogue 1650

Pattern and design

This is an elegant, lined, collarless,  cropped jacket with neck, waist and front bands, no side seam, with bracelet length two-piece sleeves. With top stitching.

I made a few altrations; I added 4cms to the length of the pattern pieces, but adding some at the under arm, and some just above the hem. It was a bit tricky due to the relative complexity of the design – four pieces, no side seam, and a panel on the CF and neck. The pattern is a b32 and I am b34 so I should have added some width to this jacket, but after measuring it I figured it had enough ease. I am not sure if this is a mistake or not so I have basted the main jacket pieces together in order to try it on for size. I have not attached the bands at the neck and front edge and hem. This will add around 2″ to the width (allowing for the button band overwrap).  So, it seems big enough to wear over the overblouse.

Machine basted, without bands
Machine basted, without bands

Fabric

The jacket is made up in the same deep greyish blue fabric I used for the skirt (with a camisole). For the lining I will use a plain turquoise silk – I don’t have the time to make a customised lining and sometimes simple is best. I don’t want a navy lining as that would be just too dull and deep for me. Navy is one of my neutrals but I prefer a lighter blue as a rule. I hope by choosing silver buttons and wearing this with a lighter layer underneath it, it won’t be too dark for me.

Construction

There are supposed to be five button with piped button holes. I just can’t face learning a new technique at this point. I need to get this jacket finished and move on to my other items. Also with adding length, and choosing a slightly smaller button for my jacket I think it needs six rather than five buttons. This is non-traditional – odd numbers seem to be prefered. However I think it will look better with an extra button, each placed 7cms apart. It’s only a matter of personal taste I think. I have some nice “burnished” silver buttons that look like they may have been made in the 1960s that I plan to use.

Vogue 1650

 

The jacket looks black in these photographs but it really is a dark bluish grey. Here it is with one of the sleeves basted in.

Vogue 1650 Nina Ricci
Left sleeve basted in

I am starting to smile! This jacket is hard work. Lots and lots of steps, including

  • underlining and interfacing
  • bound button holes
  • slashing the darts
  • opening the seams, pressing them, then slip stitching them down

Overall I reckon this jacket from start to finish will be about 60 hours work. However it is a lovely pattern and I think it will look great with the skirt I made previously.

9 Responses

  2. Stephanie
    |

    I love it – so classic. It really looks great so far. I have been putting off making my jacket because I have no idea how to tackle the alterations for the bust – have similar measurements to yours but definitely closer to a 32 shoulder and the front construction is a little bit complicated. Am tempted to just make the 34, but then I know I will be disappointed. Anyhow, good luck with the rest. That’s a lot of work but the end product will be enviable!

  3. lynbromley
    |

    That looks great Kate! I think it will be fine with lighter colours worn underneath, or adding one of your colourful scarves. I really like the style – I will look forward to seeing the finished jacket. I am planning on enrolling for a tailored jacket course locally to me – it is over 6 weeks, so it will give me plenty of time to learn some new techniques. Very exciting! All inspired by you of course.

  6. annieloveslinen
    |

    That’s looking great so far, the fit in the shoulder is beautiful, I struggle to get that right, and your sleeve is perfect, it’s coming together really well and it will be worth the effort. Like childbirth, you won’t remember how long (or painful) it was to create. Onward and upward.

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