Sewing with a Plan 2016 0.21 – McCalls 3938 – Slow coat progress

posted in: SWAP, WIP (work in progress) | 22

When we last had a look at the coat I was battling with the pockets. Or rather the pocket flaps. After some trial and error and advice from others I cracked leather edging and leather button holes.

Since then I have;

  • Remade the pockets with the new edging approach
  • Made them smaller and squarer
    McCalls 3938 Courreges coat leather binding
    Sharper pockets
  • Made the leather button holes
  • Made the lined back flap on the back of the coat
    McCalls 3938 Courreges coat
    Back of coat – basted
  • Attached the back, sides and front of the coat
  • Hemmed the coat
  • Made the undercollar and pad stitched it (one of my favourite jobs. It didn’t really need it, but I couldn’t resist)
    Pad stitched collar McCalls 3938
    Pad stitched collar
  • Made up the facings
  • Attached the upper collar to the facings and faced the coat – wrong sides together
  • Bound the front edges in leather finding a way to cope with the break so the leather looked good from the front
    McCalls 3938 Leather trim
    Trimming the fronts
  • Continued to add leather edging to the collar
  • Stitched down the facings at the front and neck edges
  • Prepared the sleeves (elbow dart, seams and hems) and eased in nicely
  • Decided on the lining – I had a nice mauve crepe silk i bought for the blouse. I have now made up the blouse in a deeper purple silk so I could use the silk for the lining. It’s very nice quality – drapey, luxurious and a good colour match.
  • Prepared the lining and lined the body of the coat, attaching the hem with swing joins
    Lining a coat with silk
    Coat lining

There is still a fair amount to do.

  • Take up the sleeves which are an inch too long (as I suspected)
  • Make up and insert the sleeve linings
  • Apply leather binding to the hem of the coat and sleeves
  • Make the small half belt for the back and bind and attatch at the back of the coat
  • Complete button holes by cutting and sewing the facings
  • Stitch on the six buttons
  • Press

I am getting a little bit tired of this project and I am keen to get on the remaining three garments

A tailored dress for my blue set

A patterned skirt and patterned blouse as my combo.

I also may still make a light mauve silk blouse for this set, and I have to resolve my pink evening dress but what I have will do. So a minimum of three more garments to go, and up to five left to finish by the end of April. If I can complete the coat by next Saturday I am still OK on timing but the deadline is getting close.

22 Responses

  1. jay

    There’s no doubt about it coats are a lot of work, and the leather binding adds to the hours, but I’m sure it will be worth it in the end. You need a nice simple project to take your mind off it, then a big push to finish. It’s a lovely colour and texture, and the silver leather trimming lifts it to another level.

  2. thedementedfairy

    This is gorgeous. Another knockout item for the wardrobe- but I bet it won’t be hung up very often, you’ll wear this to death. Lovely work, and now I want to do some pad stitching as well!

  3. Mags

    It is looking gorgeous. I’m in awe of the leather binding, I’m definitely not at this stage yet. I’ve just pad stitched my lapels on the jacket I’m making and going to get the collar done this weekend.

  4. Mary Funt

    Looks great and you are getting to the finish line with this. It has many details which slow you down but add so much to the custom look. Pick an easy garment for the next project! It does sound like you are on schedule to complete your SWAP collection.

  5. Stephanie

    Beautiful and so worth the effort. I’m now wishing I had followed through on my plan to make a coat but I definitely don’t have time! Hang in there.

  6. Ruth

    If I still lived in London, I’d get you to make my clothes even though I can make my own. Timeless and gorgeous coat – an everyday but still special.

    • fabrickated

      You are very kind Ruth. You are such an ace seamstress – always inspiring. I do hope you come to London again as it would be so nice to get together.

  7. Lynn Mally

    Well, I know the “contest” element of the SWAP is a motivator, but what you are really doing is sewing a beautiful, coordinated wardrobe. So who cares if you finish it all?

    • fabrickated

      Of course – for me it is not a competition with others; just with myself. I don’t have to finish, but I want to as I know my selection of clothes is what I actually want to wear. And I know, in advance, that they will work together and give me pleasure. SWAP is nice because others are doing it, and it gives legitimacy to planning.

  8. Annieloveslinen

    I am floored by your productivity, you seem motivated by deadlines, they are anathema to me.

    Your coat looks really good, there are a lot of time consuming processes involved but this piece is worth it, it will have a big impact. Put your head down and keep going.

  9. Sue

    That coat! I love every bit of it, a totally sharp make. I am looking forward to the rest of the wardrobe.

  10. Bunny

    Dynomite coat! That leather binding is quite special and this will be a wonderful addition to the wardrobe.

  11. viliene

    Fantastic coat! I admire your determination to make up so many garments in such a short time. I hardly ever set myself deadlines, too much of those in my work. But of course that means that sewing always comes last on the list…

    • fabrickated

      I have lots of work pressures to Vilene (and family) so the sewing targets (and the blog too) just help me prioritise sewing some of the time. Otherwise I would have a house full of unfinished work!

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