Sewing With A Plan 2015 0.13

posted in: SWAP, WIP (work in progress) | 3

The 1967 Simplicity 7305 Jacket

interfacing a tailored jacket
Placing the interfacing (using the selvedge as stabiliser)

Pattern and alterations

I toiled this pattern last year in a blue boiled wool and I have worn it almost constantly as it is pretty cold round here at present, and it comfortably accommodates a cardigan or down jacket. The only slight fault (and it is almost imperceptible) is that it could do with an additional half inch or so across the bust. The pattern is for a 32″ bust so a little adjustment is in order. So, partly to show Lyn how to do a FBA, I added about half an inch at the bust. While doing this she suggested I add some more darting to make the 1960s jacket less boxy. So I added some subtle darting to the front and back of the pattern. I also decided to do a really good job on the pockets this time.

Fabric choice, interfacing, lining and buttons

I have been calling this fabric both “pink” and “fuchsia”. Fuchsia is described as a strong, purply red. My ever helpful husband swears it is Archbishop of Canterbury cloth – a left over from making cassocks for Dr Williams. I bought it on eBay and it is “Made in England”.  All I am saying is that it is a strong colour. And probably not the first choice to wear as a two piece suit on an everyday basis.  But as useful separates that will go with the rest of my wardrobe – a good choice. Wearing it with a purple blouse and say a light pink and lemon scarf I would look like a Fuchsia – but for the SWAP it has to tone with my turquoise silk, white, and a pattern that includes some red. And the Squiggle coat.

The fabric is pure wool, with a luxurious feel, a soft nap, and a glossy look. It is strong and robust without being too thick and it was easy to cut out with a kind of “snap”. I especially enjoy working with wool and I love tailoring. It is by far my favourite type of sewing. Wool seems to be alive and yielding. It is flexible and enjoys being manipulated; it seems to work with me. I get enormous pleasure from making jackets and coats. The two jackets and a coat are the high point of the SWAP for me. I shall take it slowly, enjoying each step. Knowing the jacket will fit and will be worn often means I can just relax.

I followed a suggestion from Annie to grow on the front facing to reduce bulk (and save cloth) so was careful to mark both the CF and fold line with Tailors’ Tacks.

For interfacing I have started to sew in a fairly light cotton organdie. I plan to line in silk, which I hope to paint. If time is short I might use a plain, coloured lining instead. And buttons? I don’t have any at the moment. While I visited my friend Sharon on Clitheroe market last Saturday, and did buy some recycled buttons from her charity table, these are small ones for shirts – not  jacket buttons.

old white and glass buttons
selection of recycled buttons

Construction

So far I have cut out the pieces and put in the markings. I made the front darts and attached the interfacing last night. That’s it. Not a very productive week in terms of SWAP. I have been busy with Jungle January and family matters. Here I am trying to get my jumpsuit finished by the end of the month. My new sewing accessory is a great help.

Grandma and boy sewing together
Ted helping Granny with her sewing

I may or may not finish the jacket by next week end, although each stage is interesting and draws me along. This week I am hoping to carry out the following steps, reserving making the lining and attaching it for next weekend.

  • making bound button holes
  • pad stitching the collar
  • making and attatching the pockets
  • inserting the sleeves
  • hemming the bodice and sleeves
  • attaching the buttons

3 Responses

  1. Great, I am looking forward to seeing the finished jacket. I love the fabric. I’m off to Mum’s later to practice sewing invisible zips ready for my skirt!

  2. Your husband’s comments are great! I really enjoy these construction posts. Right now I’m trying to figure out the best way to do the FBA on my jacket…a little terrified to begin, honestly, but there’s no time like the present. I had a slow sewing/knitting week, too. Lucky you to have so many interested helpers!

  3. Many hats you wear Kate, that jacket is going to look terrific on you, especially with the added shaping from the darts.

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